tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80687441421202094712024-02-20T07:36:57.952-08:00History: Gossip Well ToldHannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.comBlogger150125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-84229930946002525992014-08-24T10:02:00.000-07:002014-08-24T10:05:39.462-07:00Harriet Tubman: One of the Greatest Women Who Ever Lived<span style="font-family: Arial;">Born enslaved, Harriet Tubman once said: "there is either liberty or death, and if I can’t have one, I will have the other.”</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Harriet Tubman was an
extraordinary woman. After escaping slavery, she travelled back to the South at
least 13 times under great personal risk to rescue over fifty members of her
family. She remarked to Frederick Douglass, that she “never lost a single
passenger” on the so-called Underground Railroad. Born in Maryland in
1820, Harriet 'Minty' Ross worked as a house servant during her early years.
Before she reached her teens she stood in the path of a brutal overseer who was
about to strike a fellow slave, and the overseer hit her instead. The injury
nearly killed her, and throughout her life she suffered from blackouts where
she fell asleep at unexpected moments, with no memory of her lapse on waking.
This was to prove dangerous in her future rescue missions. In 1844, she married
John Tubman, who refused to accompany her when she decided to flee slavery,
afraid the venture was too dangerous. Harriet decided to leave him, and reached
Philadelphia and worked there for a short time, until she travelled back to
Maryland to free her sister and her sister’s two children. She returned to the
South again to help her brother, and tried to convince her husband to come to
the North, but unfortunately, he had remarried. This began her career as a
“conductor” on the Underground Railroad, a network of houses and people who
were friendly to the abolitionist cause, who would hide runaway slaves and aid
them in their escape to the North or Canada. Tubman would rescue slaves from a
plantation and head to these houses in turn. She would always leave on a
Saturday night, as wanted posters for runaway slaves wouldn’t be printed until
Monday, and carried sleeping drugs to sooth crying babies. She was
exceptionally smart – once, when bounty hunters were on her trail, she and her
rescued slaves hitched a ride on a train, riding back to the place they had
escaped from as no hunter would expect them to turn back. If her charges became
doubtful, she threatened them to “go forward or die.” By 1856, there was a
large reward for her capture, and she was nicknamed “Moses” by fellow African
Americans. Frederick Douglass remarked “excepting John Brown…I know of no one
who has willingly encountered more perils and hardships to serve our enslaved
people than Harriet Tubman.” (Brown himself called Harriet “General Tubman.”)
During the Civil War, she worked as a nurse and a spy for the Union. She died
in 1913.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-26057362694562965132014-08-24T09:53:00.001-07:002014-08-24T09:53:52.344-07:00One of the Greatest Speeches in History: What to the Slave is the 4th of July?<h3 align="left" id="sites-page-title-header" style="background-image: none !important; font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; margin: 0px; padding: 3px 10px;" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt; font-weight: normal;">"What to the Slave is the 4th
of July?" On the 5th July, 1852, Frederick Douglass took to the stage in
Rochester, New York. He was asked to speak at a ceremony commemorating
Independence Day, but Douglass destroyed the illusion of a
"freedom-loving" America by describing the terrifying reality of
slavery. This is probably the most famous speech by Douglass and rightly so:
its power and shattering realism stir the soul. For me, it represents why
American history is so interesting to study. Douglass uses heart-rending
language to epitomise that fatal contradiction in American society, which on
many levels, still exists today. A nation that defines itself by freedom is
polluted with the stain of slavery.</span></h3>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">"...<i>Fellow-citizens, pardon me, allow me
to ask, why am I called upon to speak here to-day? What have I, or those I
represent, to do with your national independence? Are the great principles of
political freedom and of natural justice, embodied in that Declaration of Independence,
extended to us? and am I, therefore, called upon to bring our humble offering
to the national altar, and to confess the benefits and express devout gratitude
for the blessings resulting from your independence to us?... I say it with
a sad sense of the disparity between us. I am not included within the pale of
this glorious anniversary! Your high independence only reveals the immeasurable
distance between us. The blessings in which you, this day, rejoice, are not
enjoyed in common. The rich inheritance of justice, liberty, prosperity and
independence, bequeathed by your fathers, is shared by you, not by me. The
sunlight that brought life and healing to you, has brought stripes and death to
me. This Fourth [of] July is yours, not mine. You may rejoice, I must mourn. To
drag a man in fetters into the grand illuminated temple of liberty, and call
upon him to join you in joyous anthems, were inhuman mockery and sacrilegious
irony. Do you mean, citizens, to mock me, by asking me to speak to-day? ...Fellow-citizens; above your national, tumultuous joy, I hear the
mournful wail of millions! whose chains, heavy and grievous yesterday, are,
to-day, rendered more intolerable by the jubilee shouts that reach them... I do not hesitate
to declare, with all my soul, that the character and conduct of this nation
never looked blacker to me than on this 4th of July! Whether we turn to the
declarations of the past, or to the professions of the present, the conduct of
the nation seems equally hideous and revolting. America is false to the past,
false to the present, and solemnly binds herself to be false to the future.
Standing with God and the crushed and bleeding slave on this occasion, I will,
in the name of humanity which is outraged, in the name of liberty which is
fettered, in the name of the constitution and the Bible, which are disregarded
and trampled upon, dare to call in question and to denounce, with all the
emphasis I can command, everything that serves to perpetuate slavery-the great
sin and shame of America! "I will not equivocate; I will not excuse;"
I will use the severest language I can command; and yet not one word shall
escape me that any man, whose judgment is not blinded by prejudice, or who is
not at heart a slaveholder, shall not confess to be right and just...<b>What,
to the American slave, is your 4th of July? I answer: a day that reveals to
him, more than all other days in the year, the gross injustice and cruelty to
which he is the constant victim. To him, your celebration is a sham; your
boasted liberty, an unholy license; your national greatness, swelling vanity;
your sounds of rejoicing are empty and heartless; your denunciations of
tyrants, brass fronted impudence; your shouts of liberty and equality, hollow
mockery; your prayers and hymns, your sermons and thanksgivings, with all your
religious parade, and solemnity, are, to him, mere bombast, fraud, deception,
impiety, and hypocrisy—a thin veil to cover up crimes which would disgrace a
nation of savages. There is not a nation on the earth guilty of practices, more
shocking and bloody, than are the people of these United States, at this very
hour. Go where you may, search where you will, roam through all the
monarchies and despotisms of the old world, travel through South America,
search out every abuse, and when you have found the last, lay your facts by the
side of the everyday practices of this nation, and you will say with me, that,
for revolting barbarity and shameless hypocrisy, America reigns without a
rival…</b></i><b>"<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-25062176909219789382014-08-24T09:47:00.001-07:002014-08-24T09:47:53.689-07:00The Skyscraper Race: A New Frontier<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;">“The Great
Skyscraper Race”: Gilbert Keith Chesterton wrote that “architecture is the
alphabet of giants; it is the largest set of symbols ever made to meet the eyes
of men. A tower stands up like a sort of simplified statue, of much more than
heroic size.” From 1903, seven skyscrapers in New York fought and won the title
of the world’s tallest building, a battle that boasted the fast pace of
industrialisation, modernity and the enormous wealth of the United States.
Louis Sullivan, often nicknamed the “father of skyscrapers”, remarked that a
building must be “every inch a proud and soaring thing, rising in sheer
exaltation…” surely, elements which these skyscrapers incorporate. By 1929,
there were 188 skyscrapers in the Big Apple, many of them in the Art Deco style
that was popular in the late 1920’s and beyond. Skyscrapers had to combat a
number of problems, height and shape being two of them. The invention of the
elevator was critical for skyscrapers to reach even higher, and by 1924, it had
become semi-automatic, removing the need for an operator.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><u>The Chrysler Building</u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;">The Chrysler is one of the most
recognisable buildings in the world, and is a perfect example of the Art Deco
style. Originally, the building was conceived by Senator William Reynolds who worked
with architect William Van Alen, but soon backed out after Alen’s plans were
too costly. This paved the way for Walter P. Chrysler to take up the task. It
had not escaped Chrysler’s attention that the area on 42<sup>nd</sup> Street
was cheap, and he wanted a skyscraper that would bring financial rejuvenation
to the area as well as being visually impressive. Chrysler also wanted to claim
he owned the tallest building in the world. Van Alen, who was born in Brooklyn
and spent several years in Paris studying architecture, devised new plans that
were dismissed by Chrysler – he wanted a bigger and more striking building. He
wanted his office to look out across the New York skyline; he also asked Alen
to place a toilet on the top floor so he could “shit on Henry Ford and the rest
of the world.” Begun in 1928, it took two years for the building to be
constructed, at roughly four stories a week. And, amazingly, no construction
workers died during its completion. Before the building was finished, Van Alen
had a trick up his sleeve to ensure the Chrysler was the tallest building in
New York, fighting off competition in Wall Street from his former partner Craig
Severance. Van Alen designed a 186ft spire in secret that could be assembled in
just 90 minutes. After the spire had been placed, embarrassingly, Wall Street
announced they had the tallest building, but Alen’s genius had won out.
Unfortunately for Alen, the Empire State Building robbed the Chrysler of the
title a few months later. Ironically, the Chrysler was to be Van Alen’s
downfall. After its construction, Chrysler argued that Alen had stolen ideas
from other architects and did not pay him – it is still a mystery whether Alen
ever received a dollar for this stunning design. This, together with the onset
of the Depression meant that Alen never worked on a similar grand design ever
again. The Chrysler is now the second tallest in New York, after the attacks on
9/11 destroyed the World Trade Center. In 1976, it was named a national
landmark. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-88411896754507969862014-06-14T15:59:00.001-07:002014-06-14T15:59:35.461-07:00The Washington 'Redskins'
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When I was in South Carolina last year, I watched a
debate on CNN about Native Americans protesting against the Washington
'Redskins' football team. There was a panel of four men (three white guys and
an African American) discussing whether it was right for the football team to
change their name, the term ‘Redskin’ being offensive to the Native American
community. All were from a sporting background but to me, there was an obvious
error: shouldn't a debate involving Native Americans invite a representative from
that community? I recognise that the term 'Native American' or 'American
Indian' is very broad and can encompass many different tribes, but the absence
of someone who could be (and frankly, is) involved in the debate was glaring. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">According to the team's management, the name is a
badge of honour. It respects and admires the Native American community and is
no way offensive. Some commentators have argued that all of this debate is just 'political
correctness gone crazy.' The problem with this defence is that the people the
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #1a1a1a; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #262626; font-size: 10pt;">In February, the National Museum of the American Indian held a daylong
symposium on the use of Indian mascots by sports teams. Museum Director Kevin
Gover, of the Pawnee Nation, said the word "redskin" was "the
equivalent of the n-word” and the</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Oneida Indian nation in New York has launched a
campaign against the name. </span>Even if some people aren’t bothered
about the debate, the majority of Native Americans believe that the term itself
is offensive: <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/oct/07/washington-redskins-racist-native-american-thoughts">http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2013/oct/07/washington-redskins-racist-native-american-thoughts</a>”
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;">The
Washington Post conducted a poll to ask fans what they thought of the name. 8
out of 10 did not want the name to be changed, despite the fact that most
believed the term is disrespectful towards Native Americans. Confused? Yes.
Especially since most of the fans would continue to support the team if the name
was changed: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;">(<a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/sports/redskins/washington-redskins-name-washington-post-poll-finds-most-dc-area-fans-support-it/2013/06/24/84bc2d0e-dd03-11e2-a484-7b7f79cd66a1_story.html">http://www.washingtonpost.com/sports/redskins/washington-redskins-name-washington-post-poll-finds-most-dc-area-fans-support-it/2013/06/24/84bc2d0e-dd03-11e2-a484-7b7f79cd66a1_story.html</a>)
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">The basic fact is, the term
'redskins' is racist. It was used in a racial context to discriminate against
American Indians, and there is no way around the fact it is an offensive term.
It would be like calling a team the Washington Niggers. Racism is horrible and
a stain on global humanity in general, but why is discrimination against Native
Americans treated in a different way to African American racism? The scandal
over Donald Sterling caused international outrage - which was a good and
necessary thing - but why can a football team parade around an offensive term?
The team is using a racial slur to sell merchandise - from T-Shirts to mugs -
and it is completely unacceptable to discriminate against and marginalise an
ethnic group. It reveals a lot about the nature of American society and how
discrimination and </span><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">the past </i><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">has been swept under the carpet.</span></div>
HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-68898278382071851452014-06-07T01:13:00.002-07:002014-06-07T01:13:45.098-07:00The Navajo Code-talkers of WW2This is a fascinating article on the death of the last original Navajo Code Talker of WW2. Chester Nez died (or to use the Navajo phrase 'walked on') this week at the age of 93. During the War, 29 Navajo men developed a code in their own language that Japanese forces could not break, which helped the US Army win the War in the Pacific. The mission was so secret the Code Talkers could not talk about their role until 23 years after 1945.<br />
<br />
It's fascinating to consider this aspect of American history, considering that Chester was banned from speaking his native language at his boarding school. He released a memoir a couple of years ago - the only Code Talker to do so - and it's now sitting in my Amazon basket….<br />
<br style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 16px;" />
<address style="border: 0px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: inherit; line-height: 16px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
Read more at<a href="http://indiancountrytodaymedianetwork.com/2014/06/04/he-was-their-last-original-voice-code-talker-chester-nez-walks-155152" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">http://indiancountrytodaymedianetwork.com/2014/06/04/he-was-their-last-original-voice-code-talker-chester-nez-walks-155152</a></address>
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http://indiancountrytodaymedianetwork.com/2014/06/04/he-was-their-last-original-voice-code-talker-chester-nez-walks-155152HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-77637359150465282092014-06-07T01:05:00.003-07:002014-06-07T01:18:40.639-07:00Lewis and Clark!The story of Lewis and Clark is one of the most fascinating sagas in American history. It's my dream to one day travel along the Lewis and Clark trail from start to finish - Missouri all the way west to the Oregon Coast and back again. I've travelled sections of it but to do the whole thing? Magic.<br />
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A new blog post by the Smithsonian of DC has highlighted that Lewis and Clark have only become famous in the last 150 years. Indeed, for decades after their original journey (1804-6) their names were nearly forgotten. The third President of the United States, Thomas Jefferson, had always been curious about the 'West', a vast and relatively unmapped land. He wanted to learn more about his country, from the topography and the wildlife to Native American tribes. Once the Louisiana Purchase had been completed in 1803, Jefferson sent Meriweather Lewis and William Clark on an incredible mission to the west coast in an attempt to find a Northwest Passage. Although they failed in this mission, Jefferson - ever the pragmatist - worked hard to ensure it was not seen as such by the East.<br />
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Later expeditions failed to mention Lewis and Clark and it wasn't until the early twentieth century that their mission was 'rediscovered' by explorers and historians. The centennial celebration of their exploration was celebrated (particularly in Oregon) but it wasn't until the 1950s that they were remembered as heroes. More effort has also been made to focus on the interaction with Native American tribes and the instrumental contribution of Sacagawea, the interpreter and guide for the expedition.<br />
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Read more:<br />
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/what-did-lewis-and-clark-expect-find-180951467/?no-istHannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-37456616383178633592014-04-22T12:17:00.000-07:002014-04-22T12:17:13.258-07:00Natchez and SlaveryI read the following article with interest, as it deals with the interpretation of slavery in Natchez, Mississippi. I spent a couple of days in Natchez last summer, and it was one of the most, shall we say, interesting places I visited. I crammed a lot in my two days, ticking off plantations and historic sites with military precision. The best part of the short trip though, was visiting the African American History Museum. I spoke with the Director there for a good two hours, and it was really educational to hear his perspective on racism in the South and how plantations unwilling to address their past in terms of slavery. (You can read more about my trip in a previous blog post, http://astudentofclio.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/deep-south-pt-5-from-slave-auctions-to.html) <div>
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The article raises the question that ignoring slavery is not enough anymore - deeply embedded racial problems still persist, and there are some among the younger generation who are impatient with this nostalgic, 'Spring Pilgrimage' idea of the Deep South. It is a subject I would like to read more about, and can only offer my own opinions in what I have seen or heard (small and humble as they are). Most of the plantations I visited did not address slavery adequately, if at all. Unfortunately, this nostalgia for the antebellum period <i>sells. </i>Most of the tourists who hire a Southern Belle tour guide are white and do not hear about - or do not ask - <i>how </i>the plantation owner was able to afford such a luxurious home (or really I should say homes, because many slaveowners had at least two properties, some even had five or six along the Mississippi). People might be reluctant to bring up the 'slavery question' because it deals with race, and perhaps this territory is to close to home, too close to the present. It might, God forbid, open up a can of worms. But denying a part of history, and an integral part of a historical site's past, is just plain wrong. Regardless of how 'difficult' the question is in the present. It should offer an opportunity to confront these questions, to throw down the metaphorical gauntlet and challenge people to confront their present through their past, or in fact, the other way around. Education is the way forward, and historical sites must be at the forefront of this revolution. The difficulty is of course, historical sites have to be run as a business, and the fear is that if they change their program, visitor numbers may decrease. Is this a risk worth taking?</div>
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Follow the link below for the article in question:</div>
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http://www.alternet.org/culture/parts-south-glorifying-slavery-no-longer-pays-bills?paging=off&current_page=1#bookmark</div>
HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-83877587487277835672014-04-22T11:56:00.001-07:002014-04-22T11:56:19.677-07:00British Pathe uploads 85,000 film clips to YouTubeIn another great example of the benefits of Public History, British Pathe have uploaded 85,000 historical films to YouTube (that's over 3,500 hours of footage!) A Heritage Lottery Fund grant, given in 2002, was instrumental for experts to digitise the collection. The films range in date from 1896 to 1976 and include Emily Davison's tragic stunt at the Derby in 1913, the Hindenburg Disaster and Martin Luther King's "I have a dream" speech. There is a wealth of information here, and this project should be praised for its cultural and historical significance.<br />
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This is one of my favourites - Men building the Empire State Building, NY, 1930. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcq2HzadZRw&list=PL3kG3TM8jFKhYvJWIjqMbyydtwj6aZnig<br />
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I need to dedicate a day watching some of these. Fantastic stuff.HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-59496095966658021602014-03-08T04:44:00.002-08:002014-03-08T04:44:25.111-08:00History in the gaming industryA new chinese video game features characters shooting Japanese prisoners of war, and I'm not joking when I say it's actually called 'Shoot the Devils.' (I think the Chinese nationalists are missing a bit of subtlety there.) The worst thing about this however, is that the creators behind the game urge players to "remember history." Oh dear.<br />
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Obviously it says a lot about the relationship between China and Japan, and how the legacy of the Second World War remains a touchy subject. Current debates over territorial claims are not helping the situation. This, as if we needed any more proof, shows how the past is inevitably woven into the present. How can anyone argue that history is irrelevant and should be forgotten? Everything we do in the present is shaped by past events. We, as individuals, are made from our ancestors, the way we live our lives and even in the way we think is all conditioned by what has gone before. Public history can be a dangerous beast, and it is often used and abused by politicians and nationalists, as in this example. On many occasions, the passage of time does not improve international relations. It will be interesting to analyse the popularity of the game in China and to see the response in Japan...<br />
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http://sinosphere.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/02/27/videogame-uses-japanese-war-criminals-as-targets/?_php=true&_type=blogs&action=click&module=Search&region=searchResults%231&version=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fquery.nytimes.com%2Fsearch%2Fsitesearch%2F%3Faction%3Dclick%26region%3DMasthead%&_r=0HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-16071792608357931472014-03-08T04:31:00.000-08:002014-03-08T04:31:09.659-08:00WW1 on the London StageThe following article from Reuters is an interesting look at the World War One-inspired plays in London. Recently, the 'Blackadder' version of the war - i.e., soldiers being sent over the top as cannon fodder - has come under fire from historians (pun intended). They argue that the British army was fully aware of the huge death toll and desperately tried to prevent it. The introduction of tank warfare is an example of this (something I learned at the Tank Museum in Dorset, courtesy of my wonderful friend Felicity). This argument however, has not found favour in the public eye, as many prefer to view the First World War as a tragic, wasted conflict when compared to the 'just' Second World War. When politicians like Michael Gove wade in the debate, it does nothing but complicate the already tense divide between these two conflicting perspectives. The battle will rage on during the next four years, but it is important to look at <i>both </i>arguments. The 'Blackaddder' version may be more dramatic and popular but that does not mean it is right. Of course, to most in the entertainment industry, what matters is what sells.<br />
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http://www.reuters.com/article/2014/03/04/us-theatre-worldwarone-idUSBREA230PT20140304HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-67910074747131318912014-01-24T10:45:00.006-08:002014-01-24T10:46:49.859-08:00The Largest Slave Revolt in the US<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Louisiana has a dark past. One inevitably intertwined with the history of enslavement, brutality and death. Many stories remain lost, undiscovered or hidden; when I visited Destrehan Plantation, 40-50 miles from that vibrant, soulful city of New Orleans, I learned about a little-known slave revolt in 1811. I had never heard of this, despite researching the theme of slave revolts for a university essay. After my visit I purchased a book by Daniel Rasmussen, which I have just devoured in the last few days in my lunch hour. It is an amazing book, and it should be on every university reading list for American history. Rasmussen not only describes the revolt in detail, but also weaves together its consequences with the history of American expansion and how African American history is remembered through a filtered lens. </span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #222222;">In January 1811, Charles Deslondes, Koot and Quamana, slaves on neighbouring plantations outside New Orleans, led a revolt of 200-500 slaves against their masters. Deslondes began by hacking the son of his owner to death and marched in the direction of the city. Mass panic ensued. As news spread from plantation to plantation, (sometimes betrayed by fellow slaves, hoping their loyalty would win them favour), the white population fled into the swamps or made for New Orleans as well. Refugees led a 9 mile traffic jam into the city to escape these insurgents. Federal troops were called to protect New Orleans - an action which confirmed the young American republic as a slave nation – but the French </span>plantation owners<span style="color: #222222;"> decided to take matters into their own hands. 80 white men, armed to the teeth with muskets rode out to meet the slaves and charged – only half of the slave army had guns and this exchange was little more than a massacre. The planters fired and hacked the wounded to pieces. They unleashed bloodhounds to chase Deslondes and after one seized him in the chest, the vengeful planters broke both his legs, severed his head and burned his body. The other ring leaders were rounded up for trial and over one hundred were executed. Their heads were stuck on pikes and placed all along the River Road from New Orleans, reminding the enslaved of the authority of white men. This revolt was suppressed quickly and brutally; William Claiborne, the governor of the New Orleans territory prevented the revolt from being a talking point in Congress and so avoided a national discussion. The country’s largest slave revolt was lost to the history books.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This injustice deserves to be righted. These men fought for freedom and equality, and were prepared to die for it. But why have these men been forgotten? Rasmussen makes the point that the non-violent Martin Luther King has been remembered but men like Deslondes – who challenged the status quo – do not fit with American ideals and thus, ignored. Deslondes and his army were freedom fighters and Rasmussen puts them in context with other powerful black figures who tried to seize their freedom – like the black slaves who fled plantations when the Union army came to the Louisiana shore, or those who fought in the black regiments in the Union. This book strikes at the very heart of the debates within American society – over the hypocrisy of American society, its willingness to hide those who are not ‘safe’ to remember and above all what Americans were prepared to do to protect their ‘domestic institution’ = slavery.</span></span></div>
HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-62367213723705230372014-01-12T09:25:00.004-08:002014-01-12T09:25:55.971-08:00Prehistoric ReconstructionFollow the link below to see a truly amazing sight - the facial reconstruction of a prehistoric man. I love the power of science, and it is incredible to look upon the face of someone who actually existed thousands of years ago. His face is reconstructed from a skeleton near Stonehenge, although the man lived long before the settlement there. It is estimated he was between 25-40 when he died, and scientists believe it was an infectious disease that killed him. Visitors can see his face at the new visitor centre at Stonehenge, costing a whopping £27 million.<br />
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http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn24811-stonehenge-man-not-just-a-pretty-face.html#.UtLN_KXGmFJHannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-52491836895946685402014-01-04T10:45:00.003-08:002014-01-04T10:45:26.876-08:00Portsmouth Historic DockyardI visited Portsmouth Historic Dockyard today with my parents, and I was pleasantly surprised at how much fun it was. I'm not a massive fan of naval history, but it was so interesting learning about Nelson and the Battle of Trafalgar, the Mary Rose and the HMS Warrior. We had an hour tour around the HMS Victory, Nelson's ship, which is the oldest commissioned war ship in the world. It was built in 1765, so the ship was forty years old when Nelson lost his life at the Battle of Trafalgar on 21st October 1805. 821 men served on the ship, and it was amazing to see how the ship had been designed to accompany this amount of men, plus the food, the cannons and gunpowder. Our tour guide brought the history to life, describing the daily life of a man on the ship, how a wound would be treated, showing us where Nelson slept and explaining the different punishments the men would face. (The phrase 'let the cat out of the bag' comes from the idea that the cat o 'nine tails was taken up in a bag to the top deck when someone was to be punished, and it would be taken out of the bag and then used on the offender - usually between 12 and 48 times. The other phrase, 'no room to swing a cat' also comes from this - this punishment was always administered on the top deck to show men they would be wise not to misbehave but also because there was no room to flog an offender below deck - hence, no room to swing a cat o' nine tails.)<br />
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From there we visited the Royal Navy Museum and had a quick walk around the HMS Warrior in the rain. The ship was commissioned in 1861 but "never fired its cannon in anger." It was the fastest and most powerful ship at the time and acted as a deterrent to other nations. Don't mess with the Warrior, basically.<br />
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The new Mary Rose Museum was also open. £35 million had been spent on preserving the wreckage and creating the museum, and I can honestly say it was worth it. The exhibition describes how the ship was built and it has recreated a passageway so you can walk alongside the wreckage. The ship sank in 1545, and at the moment air is continually pumped out to preserve the remains. It will take four years to dry, and it was so interesting to see the wooden planks where hundreds of men would have walked up and down, shouting and obeying orders, and chillingly, where they met their death. (Only 35 survived when the crew numbered roughly 600). The artefacts were incredible - plates, cutlery, shoes, cannons, cannon balls, books, chests, jewellery - the list is endless. What I found the most fascinating however, was the facial reconstructions of some of the crew members. Several skeletons had been analysed and archaeologists estimated what they looked like and their professions. For example, the face of the master carpenter had been reconstructed and it was possible to tell he liked archery (from wear on his bones), he was literate (books were found in his berth), he was in his 30s and 5ft 7inches; an abscess in his jaw meant he could only chew on the right side of his mouth and he had arthritis in his spine and ribs. INCREDIBLE to have this amount of detail. It takes us one step closer to the past, to know what a man might have been like - what someone liked to do or felt at a particular time. The museum also described an archer, a cook, an accountant - all from their bones.<br />
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Such a wonderful visit and a reminder to me, if it's necessary, that history stirs my soul.HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-84683129902641736622014-01-04T10:22:00.003-08:002014-01-04T10:22:41.828-08:00Glorification or a sombre commemoration?<div>
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Michael Morpurgo has written an article in <i>The</i> <i>Guardian </i>about the commemoration of the First World War, which will take centre stage this year for the 100th anniversary of its beginning. But what form should the commemoration take? Should we celebrate the start of one of the most horrific conflicts of our age? Or should we just commemorate the end, in 1918? </div>
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Morpurgo describes how "destruction wreaked" the country and the terrible burden of grief tore families apart. Speaking with World War One veterans inspired Morpurgo to write 'War Horse', and he eloquently writes:</div>
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"To tell the story is the only way we have left to remember, and the only way to pass it on. And it is important to pass it on, important for the men who died on all sides, all now unknown soldiers, for those who suffered long afterwards and grieved all their lives. And important for us too. If they gave their todays for our tomorrows, then, I am sure, after all they went through, and died for, they would wish to see us doing all we can to create a world of peace and goodwill, a world that one day will turn its back on war for good. It is through their words and our stories that we must and will remember this and remember them. Then we really will be honouring their memory.</div>
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In 2014, as we begin to mark the centenary of the first world war, we should honour those who died, most certainly, and gratefully too, but we should never glorify. We should heed the words of those who were there, who did the fighting, and some of them the dying. Wilf Ellis, Harry Patch, Sassoon, Thomas and Owen. Siegfried Sassoon wrote of "the callous complacency" of those back home who wished only to prolong the war, no matter what the cost. To Wilfred Owen, the words Horace had used to glorify war centuries before, "Dulce et decorum est pro patria mori" – how sweet and fitting it is to die for your country – were simply "the old lie".</div>
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I couldn't agree more.</div>
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http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/jan/01/first-world-war-centenary-michael-morpurgo</div>
<br />HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-80681034560611621532014-01-04T10:05:00.003-08:002014-01-04T10:05:48.765-08:00"Britain's Black Power Movement in danger of being forgotten"This article from the Guardian is essential reading. The authors of a new book about the Black Power Movement in Britain argue that this history is in danger of being forgotten because it does not 'fit' with the country's idea of itself as a progressive nation. We present ourselves as a freedom-loving country, one that is free and has always been free from racism and discrimination. Of course, this is not true. What I find bizarre is that the African American Civil Rights Movement is studied in schools - very important, don't get me wrong - but <i>Britain's </i>black Civil Rights Movement is completely ignored. Something needs to change.<br />
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http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/dec/27/britain-black-power-movement-risk-forgotten-historiansHannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-59096821806636166442013-12-08T12:15:00.001-08:002013-12-08T12:15:49.581-08:00Myths of ThanksgivingDid the Pilgrims wear black? Eat Turkey? Land at Plymouth rock at all?<br />
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Some great facts here: http://hnn.us/article/406HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-40032484279501022142013-12-02T11:07:00.000-08:002013-12-02T11:07:28.436-08:00A Good SundayAbout once a month I volunteer at the Museum of London, one of my favourite museums in the city. If I arrive early enough I can get a free pass into the current exhibition, and at the moment they have a collection on the 'Cheapside Hoard.' This collection of beautiful jewellery was found in Cheapside in the early twentieth century: necklaces, bracelets, earrings and pocket watches, all made from gold, silver, emerald and sapphire, to name a few. Exquisite skill was essential in the construction of these beautiful jewels. No one knows why it was buried, perhaps four hundred years ago…was it buried by a supporter of the King during the English Civil War, and the location forgotten when the supporter died? Was it buried out of greed? Or malice? We will never know.<br />
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I volunteered for two hours with an MoL employee, where we taught visitors about shards of pottery from the Roman and Medieval times. I don't know a lot about this subject, but my new friend Arna told me so many interesting facts. One of them stuck with me. The museum found a little pot from the medieval period, and Arna explained it was a money box, an old piggy bank if you will. A slot would have been left in the side for people to put money in, and then the pot was smashed to get the money out. Several have been found near the ruins of theatres, particularly the Rose in South London. One theory is that people would bring their money boxes to the theatre, and after the first act, if they liked the play, they were expected to pay. Someone would come and collect the boxes and store them in a room in the theatre, and smash them to get the money out. Hence the term 'box office.' INCREDIBLE.HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-14891894999367297452013-10-26T01:55:00.001-07:002014-01-22T14:44:42.180-08:00Deep South Pt 7: The Ghosts of the Past, or the Legacy of Slavery<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">[I spent the last three days of my tour visiting plantations, where I learned a great deal about
how historic sites interpret slavery. On my last day, there was a
‘showdown’ between Evergreen Plantation and Houmas House, the former of which
explained slavery in more detail than I had ever heard before on a historic
site, while the latter presented such ignorance I was insulted. The legacy of
slavery is a fractured one.] <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdMBfs-_sGcFwLToHCRvKFwKDDJihkU4_oCYpRtii_bdGeHgmA8X99EOGm7tQWBuqw1ZZ7W1AmSvWxjTekXTMAkxGIu6LRrKaxS3NlQlNAYnM7dgU6s7jT-Fkhd9790WTWOw_NvLTjPCN2/s1600/P1110821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdMBfs-_sGcFwLToHCRvKFwKDDJihkU4_oCYpRtii_bdGeHgmA8X99EOGm7tQWBuqw1ZZ7W1AmSvWxjTekXTMAkxGIu6LRrKaxS3NlQlNAYnM7dgU6s7jT-Fkhd9790WTWOw_NvLTjPCN2/s320/P1110821.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Thursday 29<sup>th</sup> August – For three nights,
my parents and I stayed in a small cottage at Oak Alley (left), perhaps the
most famous plantation in the South. Type in ‘plantation’ into Google and this is the
main one that appears. It was beautiful, with a long alley of oak trees leading
to the ‘big house’, and it was worth rising early to see the morning light hit
the trees. This morning we had a tour by a lady (dressed as a Southern belle of
course) who told us some stories of the family who lived there. It was a very
‘polished’ tour and yet again her remarks about slavery were few and confined
to the end of the tour. “We recognise that without the sacrifice of the slaves
this wealth would have never have been possible. Please visit the reconstructed
slave cabins behind the house.” The way she said this was as though their
‘sacrifice’ was heroic, as though it was worth it? And why does the history of
slavery need to be separated from the house? People should learn about slavery <i>in </i>the house because enslaved Africans were an
integral part of its history. Simply, the house was run by slaves and it would
have collapsed without them. This history should not and cannot be separated. All
this requires us to do is think about slavery for a minute or two, then move
on. Recognizing their sacrifice is an empty turn of phrase to get out of
telling the whole story." </span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #292929; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Friday 30<sup>th</sup> August – After
an early start we arrived at Evergreen Plantation (right), where most of Django
Unchained was filmed. (The ‘big house’ served as Big Daddy’s home where the
Brittle brothers worked). I was a little hesitant about going to this one at
first but luckily my Dad made an executive decision and it turned out to be one of
the best places to visit. In Charleston, the slave cabins at Boone Hall survived
mainly because they were made out of brick, but at Evergreen the slave cabins
are wooden and <i>still survive today. </i>The
‘big house’ was beautiful and quite small, since the front of the house is
quite deceiving. The tour was an hour and a half long, and we spent about half
that time exploring the 22 ORIGINAL slave cabins. Because of the Louisiana
heat, the slaves at Evergreen worked from sunrise to 10.30am, then 4.30pm to
dusk. During the hottest part of the day, they could hunt or tend to their own
gardens. Each cabin housed 2 or 3 families, which is actually quite a small
number compared to many other plantations. Large bells adorned the property to summon the field slaves at any time.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #292929; font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7JMfBrnweHne-ySfsqr9LsYnBtMRMbSngKMozN9TrKCQ11HBNw06uujnzYYMOPkLPYR-oLs9Jc0-O3hJ5trFtXNEkenAe0qqUSJvDEbdyVX3gE_em1jy6bfTmofOt2l-B-AOgiihX8lS/s1600/P1110862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7JMfBrnweHne-ySfsqr9LsYnBtMRMbSngKMozN9TrKCQ11HBNw06uujnzYYMOPkLPYR-oLs9Jc0-O3hJ5trFtXNEkenAe0qqUSJvDEbdyVX3gE_em1jy6bfTmofOt2l-B-AOgiihX8lS/s320/P1110862.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In the afternoon, we drove to Houmas House Plantation (below),
a completely different experience altogether. While Evergreen had been
respectful and balanced about the experiences of the enslaved population,
Houmas House ignored them entirely. I had expected this, as the leaflet
advertising the house did not mention slavery at all. The largest plantation
house in Louisiana, it was known as the “sugar palace” in the nineteenth
century. It is difficult to grasp how much wealth it acquired, but this should
help somewhat: in 1811, the house was sold for $300,000, and in the late 1840s
it was sold again for $1 million. I can’t even comprehend that amount of money.
We had a tour of the house by again, a woman dressed as a Southern Belle; I
have never paid so much attention to the language she used to describe things.
She would lead us into the bedroom and say “this is an c18th mahogany bed, and
whoever made it in the morning would have a real hard job because it was so
high.” Similarly, she would say “this is the dining room. Someone would have
set the table and prepare the numerous courses before the family were called.”
The word slave, or even servant was not mentioned once. This is frankly,
astounding and quite an achievement. I know it can depend on the tour guide,
but you can get a certain feel to a place where you know nostalgia for the
antebellum period is more important than historical fact. At the end of the
tour, I asked her about slavery. The guide looked at me carefully before
answering, and said “maybe around 1000.” When I pressed her further about it,
she replied there wasn’t much information that had survived about slavery, but
she clearly did not know much about it and did not want to know. To make
matters worse, she then had the audacity to say that “slaves were better off
than Northern factory workers” because they were fed, clothed and provided with
medical care. Now, I'm just starting out as a historian of slavery, I don’t
know everything and I don’t pretend to. But this was just plain wrong. I tried to speak to her with
an open mind, but I couldn’t help remembering the museum director in Natchez
who told me quite clearly of the nostalgic attitude he knew I would find here.
Unfortunately, he was proved right. In the nineteenth century, slaves were
meant to be seen and not heard. Today, we cannot let them fade into the
background, we have to hear their stories regardless of whether a plantation has the ruins
of slave quarters or not. The House did not even recognise the fact that slaves
lived, worked and died there: recognizing something is the
first step, but even then recognition is the not the same as acknowledgement,
respect, or understanding why or what happened. The legacy of slavery is
divisive, proving that the racial and social cracks after the Civil War have
not healed. I present no solution, only to offer the idea that we have to talk
through our difficult periods of history in order to seal those cracks. A
fractured society does not present much hope.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">[When I returned home, I posted a review on
TripAdvisor about the House. I created an account mainly because I wanted to
write about the amazing museums I went to, but I thought I would write
something about this particular plantation. I mentioned my disappointment at
the lack of information about slavery, and less than 12 hours later I received
a private reply. “Did the house advertise it was a place to learn about slavery
or did you assume you would learn about it because you were in the South?” This
reply, more than anything, proves how some people are so touchy and defensive
about this issue. How unwilling they are to accept the truth. I replied calmly
that I had kept an open mind about all the places I visited – I travelled to
sites where African Americans held slaves, where white people were held as
indentured servants in similar conditions to slavery, places where black slaves
were treated remarkably fairly for the time, etc. I expected to learn about slavery
at Houmas because <i>slavery existed there. </i>I
have received no reply since.] <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-15916422892251599522013-10-25T11:06:00.002-07:002013-10-26T01:56:56.307-07:00Deep South Pt 6: New Orleans: Voodoo to Vampires, Jambalaya to Jazz, Or "The City That Care Forgot"<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG32-J87ojO63dEpp3PuaISVpOUtlR3mM3pI9VCFj0z68kTJ2n-eLTIY8uzWlatCVClaHAj1rt9w8kjfQ4JfejwofT-XheNvt9qR6O2o7KuTjT2ZKQ2CYRCs98HAzkSBjizYj-Ez8O-P5F/s1600/P1110275.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG32-J87ojO63dEpp3PuaISVpOUtlR3mM3pI9VCFj0z68kTJ2n-eLTIY8uzWlatCVClaHAj1rt9w8kjfQ4JfejwofT-XheNvt9qR6O2o7KuTjT2ZKQ2CYRCs98HAzkSBjizYj-Ez8O-P5F/s320/P1110275.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Thursday 22<sup>nd</sup> August – New Orleans is a
hybrid of cultures, religions and traditions. I arrived at my hotel, just
minutes from Jackson Square. Apparently this spot is the second most
photographed spot in the country (the first is the castle at Disney). I have no
idea how they work these things out but it’s beautiful nonetheless. Opposite
the park stands St Louis Cathedral, the largest Catholic cathedral in the
United States. I set out to explore the French Quarter in the early evening,
and it wasn’t long until I found myself on Bourbon Street, the liveliest and
craziest stretch of the city. So many sights, sounds and smells I had no idea
where to look first. There were street dancers, drunken men dressed as devils,
strippers trying to entice you into their clubs, Jazz musicians drawing large
crowds, playing their sax and trumpet...alongside all of this were tacky shops
selling t shirts, Mardi Gras beads and plastic Hurricane cocktail containers, a
famous drink that was created in New Orleans. I found a restaurant in the mix
of all the action and tried seafood gumbo, red rice and beans and crawfish
etoufee on a platter, then a chocolate-style bread and butter pudding dessert
(a Southern delicacy). Wherever you are on Bourbon Street, you can hear the
sound of Jazz, and it’s such beautiful and uplifting music particularly when
you are in a place with so much <i>life.</i></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfC7cO9TtyHWDJ-3hJKZm54vnCmJNMQqeUfFcsF0bvZJtJjJjgZSaCmB4Mdc-Cay-UOmouCulSF33Y4-NSc2fmOayESpN753mj3JWt85kvbbQCFEjpaX7pZGqb9gg6KqC1d12WZC0e7rF4/s1600/P1110411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfC7cO9TtyHWDJ-3hJKZm54vnCmJNMQqeUfFcsF0bvZJtJjJjgZSaCmB4Mdc-Cay-UOmouCulSF33Y4-NSc2fmOayESpN753mj3JWt85kvbbQCFEjpaX7pZGqb9gg6KqC1d12WZC0e7rF4/s320/P1110411.jpg" width="240" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">New Orleans is also a fantastic place to learn about
Voodoo, a religion that has become misrepresented – even twisted into something
completely different by society. Voodoo has its origins in Africa. Our idea of
Voodoo, as in sticking needles in dolls and causing pain, is quite different to
reality. Voodoo dolls do exist, but the pins are used to concentrate positive
energy to a particular point of the body. It can be used to send negative
energy, but the religion is really based around peace, love and sex. Voodoo has
been described as a ‘three-tiered system’ of God, spirits and ancestors. A
single God is part of the religion, but spirits are consulted and worshipped on
a more regular basis. Ancestors become spirits and protect each individual
throughout their life. To summon or communicate with a spirit, a gris-gris can
be used. Gris-gris are objects used in Voodoo as a source of magic. An African
word, there are several different types of gris-gris but they are usually split
into four – love and romance (used to attract or keep a lover, or even to break
up other relationships), power (to gain a foothold over someone or in the world
generally), luck and financial gain, and healing or uncrossing (resolving an
act or spell that someone has done against you). In the c19th, Voodoo horrified
much of the elite, but wealthy businessmen did consult a famous Voodoo
priestess, Marie Laveau. Laveau was the daughter of an African American woman
and a white plantation owner, and she was so well respected that the Catholic
church allowed her to practice feet away from St Louis Cathedral. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Unfortunately, the Voodoo Cultural Center regularly
has visitors asking how to direct pain to an enemy and some of the tacky shops
on Bourbon Street tend to perpetuate that myth rather than prevent it. I
suppose that’s unsurprising.</span></div>
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<br /><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Sunday 25<sup>th</sup> August – First thing this
morning I had a tour around St Louis Cemetery, the oldest and most famous
burial ground in New Orleans. If you open any tourist guidebook, or speak to
any local, a cemetery tour is one of the best things to do in the city. It
might sound odd, but these burial places are famous throughout the world
because of the elaborate tombs and crypts. St Louis was founded in 1789 and
holds the graves of, among others, Marie Laveau and Homer Plessy, an African American activist who challenged segregation laws
in the Plessy vs Fergusson case in 1896. Most people think the tombs were built
because the city is below sea level, but our eccentric tour guide informed us
it was purely to emulate tombs in Europe. We learned about the 1853 Yellow
Fever epidemic, the worst epidemic to hit an American city, where over 11,000 people
died. In fact, the death rate was so high that people could not build coffins
fast enough, so people were buried in mass graves, or simply just left. Yellow
fever was a nasty disease, and was very often fatal: victims would suffer for a
few days and then appear to get better, only to vomit black bile and expire
pretty much on the spot. After this particular epidemic, New Orleans earned the
nickname, “the city that care forgot.” It was a very humid day, so it was
actually quite difficult to take in everything that was said (even for a
history nerd like me). It is the middle of August so it’s not surprising, but
walking around there made me feel like I was being shut in my own tomb of
overwhelming heat. I walked back to the French Quarter and
stopped for a quick hot chocolate for me in Café du Monde, the most
famous eatery in the city. It was founded in the 1860s, and it’s open 24 hours
a day for coffee and beignets, a French doughnut-type thing that is sprinkled
with a lot of icing sugar. While my parents took a rest from the humidity, I
ventured to the Pharmacy museum, the only one of its kind in the country. It
preserves some of the medicines used to treat c19th illnesses, childbirth,
herbal remedies (often involving heroine and cocaine) and some Voodoo potions
(mainly for luck and fortune), which proved popular even among elite members of
the community. This made the museum unique and incredible interesting. There
were also some surgical kits from the Civil War, some horrible looking tools
for amputation and a short history of the origins of anesthetics. During the
war, a skilled surgeon could amputate a limb in 15 seconds, but you would still
hope that poor soldier fell unconscious during that time. In the pharmacies and
apothecaries of New Orleans, if an epidemic broke out different vases, called
Show Globes, were placed in the window with coloured liquid to illustrate what
type of disease it was – so there were different colours for cholera and Yellow
Fever. The really interesting thing though, is that this was the standard way
New Orleanians learned of an epidemic, as it wasn’t published in the
newspapers. New Orleans was a port city, and depended on trade for survival,
and panic in the newspapers about an epidemic would potentially frighten away
investors. The Show Globes (below) were a quiet way of communication. Fascinating
stuff.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We had an amazing meal on a balcony overlooking the street performers on Bourbon Street - I had chicken and sausage jambalaya, a pasta dish that tasted incredible. Listening to live Jazz and watching the sun go down was perfect. In the early evening, Dad and I decided to brave a
ghost tour, another ‘must-do’ in the city. It began in a seedy pub in the
French Quarter, and initially we weren’t sure what we had got ourselves into, but
our enthusiastic and wonderfully sarcastic guide brought the city to life
(well, back from the dead). His introduction to the city included the fact that
more people go missing in New Orleans than any other city in the States, and
stories of vampires and ghosts are rife, and frankly, too many to count. It was
really interesting to consider the origins of vampires, and how we see them
today (not as sparkly handsome beings). The guide explained that the idea of a
vampire has been around for centuries, and often emerges from mysterious cases
of someone apparently dead from an illness suddenly waking up. Victims
suffering from a severe form of tuberculosis would stay away from the light,
experience mood changes and often wake up with covered in blood from coughing
all night…you can see how the rumours of the modern day vampire can start. This
led to story number 1:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In the 1930s, a little girl burst into the police
station in the French quarter, covered head to toe in blood. She had come from
a house not far away, and she told a horrible tale of torture: two men had kept
her and four other victims strapped to beds, drinking their blood at the wrist.
The police recognised the house as the Carter residence - two brothers had lived there for some years and were well respected in the community. They went to the house
and found four victims still alive, and twenty bodies stacked together in a
room, all completely drained of blood. The coroner estimated they had been
there for roughly three weeks. The next morning, the police waited for the
brothers to arrive home, and promptly seized them to take them away for
questioning. After a long hard day working at the docks, you would think the
brothers would be easy to arrest, but it took 8 policemen beating them with
clubs to finally subdue them. Strong individuals you might say. The brothers
were tried and executed, and their bodies were placed in tombs in St Louis
Cemetery. A year later, to make room for other bodies, their tomb was opened
but of course, there were no remains. No body or ashes to speak of. Since the
1930s, there have been several break ins recorded at the Carter House, and
sketches were taken from witnesses to try and catch the intruders. In most
cases, the sketches looked exactly like the Carter brothers…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A street away from the Carter house, stands the
Lalaurie Mansion. This was probably the most gruesome story I have ever heard,
and it’s not for the faint hearted: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Madame Lalaurie was born in 1775. She was married
three times, after the first two died in mysterious circumstances (read: she
killed them). In 1834, Madame Lalaurie and her husband hosted a large party at their house. Within a few hours, a fire broke out at the mansion and as the
guests evacuated the house, the wealthy socialite and her husband were nowhere
to be found. Police entered her house to try and find the source of the blaze,
but instead, they stumbled upon a hellish scene. They found a 70-year-old slave
in the kitchen, who confessed to starting the fire, and urged the police to go
upstairs since “anyone who had been taken there, never came back.” Behind a
thick, oak door was a torture chamber: bodies of mutilated slaves were stacked
against the walls, and as the police entered the room, they found slaves still
alive who had suffered horrific injuries. Hands and feet had been amputated
and sewn onto other body parts, men were suspended by the neck by iron
pikes; lips were branded or sewn shut, and one poor woman had all her bones
broken so she could be placed inside a small travelling suitcase. The tortured
slaves were rescued from the house (only to be put on display in the local jail
for a while) and were then taken to the hospital. Madame Lalaurie was never
found. Some say she died in Paris, but evidence remains elusive.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The last story our guide told once again concerned
vampires. Two or three years ago the guide and a friend cycled past the old
convent house in the French Quarter. They noticed a shutter on the window
hanging loose, as though someone had escaped from the inside. It
remained in that state for several days, something the guide thought was odd
since the New Orleans Historical Society usually worked fast to restore old buildings.
The guide decided to look into the history of the convent further, and
discovered that the particular room with the broken shutter was used to lock up
certain individuals – vampires. The bolts and nails of the shutter were made
from silver and blessed by the Pope himself. It took the convent nine days to repair that
broken shutter. Apparently, the same length of time it takes for the Pope to
bless silver nails, and send a missionary over to the convent to put the nails
in place…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A cracking good story.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-17708689372175015562013-10-25T10:53:00.003-07:002013-10-26T01:56:56.310-07:00Deep South Pt 5: From Slave Auctions to Black Slaveowners - Natchez, Mississippi<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vrkOt2_jIzA9FYi1lzy7yTLCIQ_QNVenaOO_VVruLl1XCWN7S787HvBF5BsVWgNODiaW742OSXQqagubzPsJp1NSauEZej2Pqn2gnZHChz_E_Uq73mXyAl2SmhMkm_gxnMGlG5atiwrP/s1600/P1100999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vrkOt2_jIzA9FYi1lzy7yTLCIQ_QNVenaOO_VVruLl1XCWN7S787HvBF5BsVWgNODiaW742OSXQqagubzPsJp1NSauEZej2Pqn2gnZHChz_E_Uq73mXyAl2SmhMkm_gxnMGlG5atiwrP/s320/P1100999.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">"Sunday 18<sup>th</sup> August – I arrived at Vicksburg
National Park, Mississippi on a beautiful, quiet Sunday morning. I pretty much had the place
to myself, save a few dog walkers and keen joggers.
After a short video on the siege of Vicksburg in the Visitors Centre, I grabbed
a map and drove the 16-mile auto tour around site. Both Jefferson Davis and
Abraham Lincoln saw Vicksburg as the place that would
decide the fate of the war, and it was a huge victory for the North after Grant’s
constant assault. Initially, Grant had failed to take the city by force, so
he decided to lay the town to siege. Eventually, the Confederates surrendered,
and this marked a turning point in the course of the war. The auto tour covered
the Union and Confederate lines, the trenches, and memorials to the regiments
that fought there. It was very eerie standing that on the hilltop; it was so
peaceful and quiet, the exact opposite to what it would have been like in 1864.
The sound of guns, men bellowing orders, the groans and screams of the wounded.
You can almost feel what happened here. As could be expected, there was a lot
of information on military tactics and maneuvers, and I prefer to read about the
stories of individual soldiers rather than the direction in which they were marching. For
example: there was a small house on the auto tour that was commandeered by
Union troops as a field hospital for smallpox victims. An incredible photograph
showed makeshift tents and doctors tending patients, frozen in time. I was
standing on the exact spot, and I instantly wanted to know about the soldiers
who were in that hospital, the doctors tending to the wounded, and the
homeowner who however unwillingly, allowed their house to be taken over by the
Union forces. Sadly, this was not the case.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">From Vicksburg, I travelled down to Natchez in
Mississippi. On the way, I headed to Rosswood Plantation, a large home off
the beaten track. I drove up the gravel pathway to the house and wondered
whether it was open – there were no cars and it looked rather run down. I
knocked on the door and a sweet old lady named Jean answered, inviting me
warmly into her<i> </i>house. <i>Her </i>house! Jean and her
husband Walter had lived in this house for 38 years, and conduct tours on the
off chance someone visits. The house was beautiful in itself but the real joy
was talking to this lovely couple. Walter talked to me for over an hour about
the history of the house, and showed me some fascinating artefacts such as part
of a Union cannonball that was fired into the kitchen. The Wade family owned the
plantation, and Walter explained how in the 1850s, their slaves were freed and
were given the choice of travelling to Liberia at the family’s expense. 154
slaves decided to make the trip, but 105 chose to remain behind. This is an
incredible story, since it was illegal to free slaves in Mississippi at that
time. Walter also showed me an invoice from 1866 that shipped cotton from the
plantation, to New Orleans and finally to Liverpool, England. Britain depended
on the cotton trade throughout the nineteenth century, and just before the
Civil War, 90% of the cotton imported through Liverpool came from the American
South. Despite her claims of moral superiority over American slaveholders, the
cotton from their plantations directly financed the British Industrial Revolution.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Monday 19<sup>th</sup> August – MASSIVE history day!
I’m staying in a beautiful bed and breakfast right in the very heart of
Natchez. It’s a small town, with lots of antique shops, cafés and a gorgeous
view over the Mississippi river. Since this is the middle of August, it is HOT,
though. This morning I visited Melrose Plantation, under the National Park
Service. The ranger tour was great, and talked fairly about the owners and the
slaves. This plantation home was owned by the McMurrin family, but it was not a working
plantation: slaves tended fruit and vegetables to feed the family. This was
different to the other commercial plantations the family owned along the Mississippi river. The slave
cabins had been restored, and there was a lot of information on the life of a
slave, as well as a strong focus on the African American community in Natchez.
The exhibition in the cabin was good at providing context, and it briefly
touched on refugee camps during the Civil War. In the winter of 1863-4, over
four thousand African Americans died of yellow fever, a horrific disease spread
by cramped and unhygienic conditions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg19P-vAdlJy8Ij0LgeJazp47Lu_FFt8CA2Y5iKP3u7weEm4QgFMkTCr-TlUQDFDkxJXQzHpTEJj6YNM8_RCYIBkl8HRasjIBsy4RPJ6uzqjgGugDn4QvW47JkdcSd24CFRfkvh35cxu7eC/s1600/IMG_1011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg19P-vAdlJy8Ij0LgeJazp47Lu_FFt8CA2Y5iKP3u7weEm4QgFMkTCr-TlUQDFDkxJXQzHpTEJj6YNM8_RCYIBkl8HRasjIBsy4RPJ6uzqjgGugDn4QvW47JkdcSd24CFRfkvh35cxu7eC/s320/IMG_1011.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Over the next few hours, I visited two more plantation
homes. In the mid c19th, Natchez had the largest concentration of millionaires
per square mile, and looking around at some of these plantations, it’s not
hard to see why. Longwood (left) was an unusually shaped house – in fact it’s the
largest octagonal home in America – and the tour was unfortunately nothing special. There were no personal stories or anecdotes rather it was a tour about the paintings and the furniture. Similarly, Rosedale Plantation is owned by the Daughters of the American Revolution and as can be expected,
the tour guide did not mention slavery once, and said little else about it after I prompted her. Both of these
homes refused to confront the legacy of slavery; neither could have operated or
even existed without slaves, and to ignore their history is insulting and
frustrating. We will never have a ‘complete’ picture of the past, but it is
wrong to solely focus on the ‘family in the big house.’ The tour at Rosedale in
particular was romanticized so much it can only be described as a retelling of
‘Gone With the Wind’, that era of nostalgia for the Southern way of life that
depicted the beautiful Southern belle surrounded by happy slaves. Urgh. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIvpA6UCN3oAYAGgkvfeXl3FoHgD86g7Z5t_BgmXXU3mELwI-i14hzQ872vKKrediruMwCG1wOi1pUmP6Yk2lu79QvIpceQzXyNDCj35R1qfjjx5AvvFk9DXrML_A4-G2JkUmPM_Y2GQ8D/s1600/IMG_1095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIvpA6UCN3oAYAGgkvfeXl3FoHgD86g7Z5t_BgmXXU3mELwI-i14hzQ872vKKrediruMwCG1wOi1pUmP6Yk2lu79QvIpceQzXyNDCj35R1qfjjx5AvvFk9DXrML_A4-G2JkUmPM_Y2GQ8D/s320/IMG_1095.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Sticking with the theme of slavery, I drove to the
Forks of the Road National site. There isn’t much there apart from a few
interpretative boards, but it is an important place to visit. In the c19th, this was the second largest slave market in the United States. It was
incredibly moving to stand at a site in which thousands of slaves were sold along the Mississippi river. Between 1800 and
1860, over 750,000 slaves were traded from the Upper South to Mississippi,
Louisiana and Texas. The Forks consisted of several markets, including an
auction block and an inspection room where slaves were made to stand and
traders bartered over their strength and worth. Because of this arrangement, a
slave could be purchased on the same day if necessary, or bought later on in
the week. The fear of being ‘sold downriver’ led to hundreds of enslaved
Africans planning an escape route North, or sometimes practicing self-mutilation or
suicide. During the Civil War in 1863, the 58th Regiment of the U.S. Black Infantry
occupied the Forks site. It is likely that many of the soldiers had been sold
as slaves at that same spot, many years before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUCDEtcrN7Hf4rcq0GlW4PZ_XDyCXseWOI49-IpiZLunNCu35w7hn1v2RIqPOgfZpogipcOfNVy_UxJ8lxgxwOzJgdbFiYmdXN3WT7rHbn4dA1eEalHmR8DFuZN4T9S68-J73zTmELFYyX/s1600/IMG_1068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUCDEtcrN7Hf4rcq0GlW4PZ_XDyCXseWOI49-IpiZLunNCu35w7hn1v2RIqPOgfZpogipcOfNVy_UxJ8lxgxwOzJgdbFiYmdXN3WT7rHbn4dA1eEalHmR8DFuZN4T9S68-J73zTmELFYyX/s320/IMG_1068.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 10pt;">The last historic house I
visited that day was the William Johnson house. Johnson was a prominent businessman in Natchez, and as a result owned several slaves. You might think this is not unusual, but Johnson had been born into slavery. What made a black man, a former slave, own another black man? Born in 1809 to a slave woman and a white slave owner, Johnson was
freed at the age of 11; the only reason why we know so much about him was that
he kept an extensive diary throughout his life. After working as an apprentice
in a barber shop, Johnson saved his wages and purchased his own barber shop in
1830. Over the next two decades, Johnson bought another two barbershops and a
bath house in Natchez. At the time, it was not illegal by state law to prevent
a free black man owning slaves, even if that person had been a slave himself.
Johnson’s diary doesn’t tell us why he owned slaves, and the National Park
Service presented interesting questions as to the social and political
implications of this situation. As an African American man, there was only so
far he could progress in society, but slave ownership was a sign of economic
and social status. Hence, he was a respected man in the community. It is believed Johnson was a fair master, but if a
slave displeased him, he punished them severely. For example, Johnson severely
whipped his slave Stephen for frequent bouts of drunkenness. In 1851, a land
prospector named Baylor Winn murdered Johnson, and despite the fact Johnson's teenaged son witnessed the attack, Winn was acquitted because a black man,
slave or free, could not testify in court against a white man. Attempts were
made to prove Winn was a mulatto, but little became of it. This was one of the
best historic sites I visited, for it presented an unusual and unique case in a
respectful and interesting light.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Tuesday 20<sup>th</sup> august – Before I left sunny
Natchez I visited Stanton Hall, perhaps the most beautiful house I visited on
my trip. In 1857, this ‘town house’ was purchased and refurbished by Edward
Stanton, who owned 7 plantation homes on the Mississippi. This set Stanton back
$83,000, an extraordinary sum; in today’s money this cost around $10 million! Stanton
died 9 months after the house was completed, but his wife lived there for a
further 30 years. Echoing the standard Natchez theme on slavery, not much was
said about the ‘servants’ but perhaps that was unsurprising since there were
pictures of people dressed as Southern belles and Confederate officers covering
the walls. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilxneikGePtM8cnth5c66ZAcPhawDCceOw8RInxSgx223WvmJqOtdcQzk1xbvSMFUs3YsEeLxsSlPUFaHNb7SeO1d1mJJs6aEr45lvsUaVXmdrCvmLm3RIC7PYEQ7Ax8Gm6Z4w8l3RD57G/s1600/P1110153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilxneikGePtM8cnth5c66ZAcPhawDCceOw8RInxSgx223WvmJqOtdcQzk1xbvSMFUs3YsEeLxsSlPUFaHNb7SeO1d1mJJs6aEr45lvsUaVXmdrCvmLm3RIC7PYEQ7Ax8Gm6Z4w8l3RD57G/s320/P1110153.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">For a completely different experience, I visited the African
American Museum in the centre of Natchez. I talked to the director, a lovely engaging
man named Darryl, for nearly two hours and learned some fascinating things
about the racial status quo in Mississippi. We had a great discussion about the
legacy of slavery in the South, focusing on the tendency for plantation homes
to ignore slavery or refer to the enslaved as ‘servants.' He believed this
ignorance was the hardest thing to fight against, mainly because it is so widespread.
I told him about my experience with the tour guide in Selma, and he wasn’t
surprised – this idea of African Americans as happy servants feeds into the
nostalgia for the antebellum South, a romantic portrayal that is so far from
the truth."</span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-42159368574895980592013-10-23T11:39:00.001-07:002013-10-26T01:56:56.316-07:00Deep South Pt 4: "The March To Freedom" - Alabama and the Civil Rights Trail
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">[I spent three lovely relaxing days on the Gulf Coast
of Alabama, a wonderful mix of sand, sea and sun. The food was incredible – I
tried oysters, crab and seafood gumbo – and in between stuffing my face with
food I read some books on the beach. I never do ‘beach holidays’ so to sit and
do nothing for three days was perfect. I left the coast early one morning, and
after a quick stop over at a Marine centre to feed and cuddle a dolphin, I
drove North to Mobile. This is quite possibly the most random holiday I have
been on. The following recounts my experience on the African American Civil Rights Trail.] <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Wednesday 14<sup>th</sup> August – I reached Mobile
in the early afternoon, and plugged in the zip code address for Oakleigh House
in my Sat Nav. The town looked very rough and run down, and the house was
tucked away in a very small historic district behind the main road. I parked and was slightly disconcerted to see a security guard posted out
front. It’s fairly rare to see that, and considering I had all my earthy
possessions in the boot (or trunk) of my car I was nervous as I approached the
front door. I had a private tour of the house by a
girl dressed as a Southern belle – of course. It was home to the Irwin and
Roper families, and during the Civil War Union soldiers marched to the
threshold and threatened to burn the house down, but Margaret Irwin, who was
born in England, unfurled a British flag and declared she was British, and not
part of the war. The Union troops backed down and left, despite the fact that
Margaret’s husband and brother were both high-ranking Confederate officials.
The house was interesting, but my standard complaint with house tours – here
and sometimes in the US – is the lack of context. We’re told about the
furniture and the pretty paintings but what was happening <i>outside </i>the house and how did it affect the family and the slaves. Or,
as this house liked to refer to them, <i>servants.
</i>The terms ‘slave’ and ‘servant’ seem interchangeable, even though
the meaning is very different. At the end of the tour, the guide showed me a
photograph of a slave and declared “all Southerners weren’t bad, and people in
Mobile treated their slaves well because they weren’t living on plantations.”
This may have been true in isolated cases, but it was such a sweeping
generalization with little evidence to support her argument. Apparently because
the family had their photograph taken with a slave it meant they were part of
the family. In Southern society, a paternalistic system existed where
plantation owners would have seen their slaves as their extended family, but of
course there was a racial and social divide between the two races. The guide
did not or was reluctant to point this out.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio_RN3U6gwb3vfZ-hC-TiU359zor1HslvRFuO8QQBwuJnaZN2eJiv7itH2beaLygQduQIQkaAn-xgiOmN5GcvR_ax3NdgHcs4t40_woaeMLXdnzAFhAS51fnLoWrrzyoA8zirzRp_4jk46/s1600/P1100604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio_RN3U6gwb3vfZ-hC-TiU359zor1HslvRFuO8QQBwuJnaZN2eJiv7itH2beaLygQduQIQkaAn-xgiOmN5GcvR_ax3NdgHcs4t40_woaeMLXdnzAFhAS51fnLoWrrzyoA8zirzRp_4jk46/s320/P1100604.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Thursday 15<sup>th</sup> August – Montgomery, Alabama.
Today I drove into downtown Montgomery to follow the Civil Rights Trail. My
first stop was the Rose Parks Library and Museum, which was split into a
children’s section and the main museum. In 1955, buses across the South were
segregated, and African Americans were meant to sit in the back of the bus and
if it was busy, they had to vacate their seat for a white person. One evening,
Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat for a white woman, and although she was
by no means the first to do this, her actions ignited the Montgomery Bus Boycott.
Thousands of African Americans avoided using buses, and car-pooled with friends
and work colleagues for nearly a year. The photographs of near empty buses
proved a powerful moment in the Civil Rights Movement. It was amazing to
stand at the site where history was made! At the ticket desk of the museum I wavered over the
decision to buy a ticket for the children’s section but it was worth it. The
exhibition centered on a bus that acted as a time machine. It was
driven by a robot (stick with me), and an actress playing Rosa Parks guided us
through key moments in African American history. It covered the origins of Jim
Crow, and how the name was taken from a minstrel show; the 1857 Dred Scott
decision, a landmark case that basically declared white and black people did
not have the same rights; the 1850s where Harriet Tubman and Henry ‘Box’ Brown
escaped slavery and demanded abolition; the Civil War and the Emancipation Proclamation;
and 1896 for the Plessy vs Ferguson case. Homer Plessy was a black man who decided
to test the 14<sup>th</sup> amendment that said everyone was equal. He led a direct
challenge against the laws of segregation by sitting in a white compartment on
a train. Plessy could pass as a white man, but identified himself as black, only
to be forced off the train. He took the case to court, but Federal judges ruled
that conditions provided on a train (i.e., a white and a black compartment)
were “separate but equal.” This infamous phrase confirmed the accepted
practice, but it was a huge blow for African Americans. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">It was a really good
visual display, with the bus moving side to side when you travelled ‘through
time.’ Apparently the museum gets a lot of visitors from the state, as well as
London and Paris! It was very enjoyable and so well presented. The main 'adult' section of the museum focused on a dramatization of Rosa Parks’ stand on the
bus, and an exhibition contained documents of when she was arrested and how the
Montgomery Bus Boycott evolved into an incredibly organised movement. Volunteers
such as Joanne Robinson worked through the night to print 52,000 leaflets,
distributing them across town to families and churches to warn them off the
impending boycott. Money was raised for those who could not get to work, and
just under 400 cars were purchased to transport people to and from work. The
state tried to class them as taxis, as you would need a business licence to
operate them but the activists cleverly painted churches on the side of the car –
you could not class a church as a business. There were some excellent facts
that I had never come across before.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsfAV1tCy902WJWDGSf-1uz8gUYHXqWaxhKNsj4NNJEB3dHcAk0cGiaZQegNzb9dx7GcKXy307FA3y6fMCW8E6Cj3Ix47RXrSDHFUPgZ67RzgnDl6SY5vNgyoMawXTKYAGakKOC8vSUsLF/s1600/P1100753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsfAV1tCy902WJWDGSf-1uz8gUYHXqWaxhKNsj4NNJEB3dHcAk0cGiaZQegNzb9dx7GcKXy307FA3y6fMCW8E6Cj3Ix47RXrSDHFUPgZ67RzgnDl6SY5vNgyoMawXTKYAGakKOC8vSUsLF/s320/P1100753.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: 10pt;">After a brief visit to the Dexter Memorial Church
where Martin Luther King preached and the Alabama State Capitol, I briefly
walked around the Jefferson Davis Home (below). Davis was the President of the
Confederacy during the American Civil War, and he resided in Montgomery for a
few months until the capital of the Confederacy moved to Virginia. The house
was free to go into, and it reminded me of a typical National Trust site. The
Home had preserved the furniture and had some written info on where the chairs
and paintings were from. Unfortunately there weren’t a lot of interesting
anecdotes, or </span><i style="font-size: 10pt;">stories. </i><span style="font-size: 10pt;">This is
the main failure of many National Trust sites, and I find places less interesting
when you don’t feel connected to the person that lived there. Why does it
matter where the carpet is from, when you can focus on the life of Davis
instead?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip2CSJZSATSJGIpXCWw5RbWcumMt_19UVR9PbHPXOQHw3FD_KiI5PPf933s5tfnw-ybhBTfqxRvdRvInIh_mz5npRVMrBI2ZN1cSB4IAL5t_lvyuxQcH2gcg4sX1j3GZlMULLM89mwXOUy/s1600/P1100700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip2CSJZSATSJGIpXCWw5RbWcumMt_19UVR9PbHPXOQHw3FD_KiI5PPf933s5tfnw-ybhBTfqxRvdRvInIh_mz5npRVMrBI2ZN1cSB4IAL5t_lvyuxQcH2gcg4sX1j3GZlMULLM89mwXOUy/s320/P1100700.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Returning to the African American history trail, I
booked a short tour around Martin Luther King’s house. This was such a
memorable experience. Before the tour of the house, the manager, Shirley
Cherry, gave a short introduction to the Civil Rights Movement. She told some
horrific stories of the violence suffered by both black and white activists; a
school friend of hers was shot in the head for refusing to use a ‘coloured bathroom.’ </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This
house (below) belonged to MLK for several years, and it was here that the KKK tried to
assassinate him and his family. A bomb blew up the front of the house,
shattering part of the floor and the front window. Luckily, his wife and
daughter were at the back of the house and escaped unscathed. The house is also
important historically because it was the place where MLK experienced his
famous epiphany. One night, after several late night phone calls threatening
the lives of himself and his children, MLK sat in his kitchen and contemplated
giving up. He prayed, and thought he heard the voice of God urging him to “seek
righteousness, seek justice, and seek truth.”
I stood in that kitchen, listening to an audio recording of MLK
describing that moment, and chills ran down my spine. It was immensely
powerful, especially because the tour guide knew MLK personally. At the end of
the tour, I asked her what he was like. She paused, and said with a smile on her face, hearing him speak
was “marvelous.” He had a great personality, and refused to talk down to
anyone. Watching the pride and love in her face was a special moment for me; I
had never dreamed of meeting anyone who could tell me what it was truly like to
hear MLK speak.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL7ZydBRbVhr233stxQ-B6ZDbTZ5T0C1eUmA6WM0MDUEiUvakXgm6GsGrwxIZfjkT9bNc3RRFGPJFayG1s_D2374K1qH3Zy8GLNGGmvPH7oE_CsuHHUQtYloZkK-TWYGZ7MbAAlP1Yixe5/s1600/P1100766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL7ZydBRbVhr233stxQ-B6ZDbTZ5T0C1eUmA6WM0MDUEiUvakXgm6GsGrwxIZfjkT9bNc3RRFGPJFayG1s_D2374K1qH3Zy8GLNGGmvPH7oE_CsuHHUQtYloZkK-TWYGZ7MbAAlP1Yixe5/s320/P1100766.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 10pt;">Friday 16</span><sup>th</sup><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> August – Today I drove to Selma
to learn about the famous Voting Rights March from Selma to Montgomery. In
1965, Civil Rights activists marched along the Edmund Pettus Bridge and were
beaten back by the police. In outrage, another march was scheduled, and men and
women, black and white, marched 54 miles to Montgomery to demand the right to vote. A short video made by students at the National Park Site focused
on the events of that year, as well as the importance of voting for new generations. The video
highlighted some individual stories, namely that of Viola Liuzzo. Viola was a
white woman, a mother of five children, who drove down from Michigan to attend the march.
As she was driving some of the marchers home, Viola was shot and killed by the
KKK. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 10pt;">I started chatting to Michael, the
park ranger at the site and he told me some fascinating and disturbing things
about Selma. The museum has had several threatening phone calls from the white
community, demanding the National Park Service shut it down immediately.
Michael explained that many people in Selma don’t understand the significance
of the march or the Civil Rights Movement in general. This was proved by a
visit to a town house in the afternoon.</span><span style="font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 10pt;">Sturdivant Hall is a short drive from the Selma museum, and is a
beautiful example of a Greek Revival home. It was a stunning house, but the
tour guide was the most interesting thing about it. I mentioned I had been to
the Selma Museum and she made a comment I couldn’t ignore: “they don’t tell you
everything.” Intrigued, I asked her to explain. She then launched an attack on
the Civil Rights Movement, dismissing their objectives and questioning why it
was necessary when Selma faired well in racial terms compared to other cities in
the South. (I considered telling her about Jim Clarke, a notorious sheriff from
Selma who from want of a better word, was a tyrant). The Selma museum was
“propaganda rather than history” and the Movement used the killing of activist
Jimmy Lee Jackson to their advantage, in her words, they wanted someone to get
killed. (Jackson was actually shot whilst attempting to protect his mother and
grandmother from a violent white mob.) Apparently, “things weren’t that bad in
Selma.” The tour guide was young, possibly early 30s,
so it’s interesting to consider her attitude. Had she grown up with these ideas or was this something she had developed on her own? She was very defensive throughout, although
I didn’t push her – sometimes it’s best to let someone talk rather than
interrogate someone. Regardless, it was clear she had no respect for the Civil Rights Movement and was not impressed with the memorials and museums. </span></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">From Selma, I drove to a former Confederate Soldier’s
Home in Marbury, about 40 minutes from Montgomery. The sites consists of two
cemeteries and a museum, and is fairly unique in the US. At the turn of the
twentieth century, former soldier and businessman Jefferson Manly Faulkner gave
up some of his land to be used as a soldier’s home for Confederates. At its
peak, 102 veterans called this place home. After the war, the Federal government only
granted pensions to veterans of the Union cause, so Confederates depended on
payments from the state. Homes nicknamed “Boys of ‘61” sprang up across
Virginia, Louisiana and Arkansas, but the site in Marbury was thought to be
more permanent. Veterans could bring their wives, and were provided with food
and medical care on a daily basis. Veterans could tend to vegetable gardens,
and every year in April the United Daughters of the Confederacy celebrated
Confederate Memorial Day. In 1934, the last veteran died, and a few years later
the state officially closed the home. Today, Marbury is the final resting place
for 313 Confederate veterans and widows.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Saturday 17<sup>th</sup> August – I left Montgomery in
the early morning to arrive at Birmingham for 10am. After a confusing
altercation with a parking metre, I found the Civil Rights Museum and managed
to bag myself a free tour of the state park opposite. (It pays to get up
early). It was a fascinating tour of the Civil Rights Movement in Birmingham, a
city well known to activists as a hot bed of racism and segregation. The tour
mainly focused on the events of 1963, where MLK and Reverend Fred Shuttleworth
led numerous rallys against the system. Both men organised ‘Project C’, an
initiative which centered on the <i>confrontation</i>
of racism and violence. At this time, African Americans couldn’t use public
parks, or gather in any place apart from their own churches. Violence was rife,
and the infamous city commissioner, Eugene ‘Bull’ Connor, ruled the city with
an iron fist. Connor used his immense power to crush black resistance and
arrest hundreds of activists and ordinary citizens. He had MLK arrested, and
had the audacity to defy President Kennedy when the latter demanded to know why
MLK had not been allowed a phone call. During a march in ’63, Connor ordered the
fire department to hose protestors – mainly teenagers and young people – with
jets of water so strong it could shave bark from the surrounding trees. One
woman claimed parts of her hair have never grown back because of the force of
the blast. (The infamous picture of a dog attacking a protestor happened here,
and is immortalized in stone in a small memorial). Connor ensured the police
dogs were trained to bite and never let go, and typically, his dog (named
‘Nigger’) was the most violent dog on the force. After a peaceful march organised by King and Shuttleworth, Connor locked children up for days in jail with little
food, and when he ran out of space, he used pig stys. He often released
children at 3am and told them to make their own way home; worried friends and
parents often worked in shifts at street corners to pick up wandering children.
The media coverage of the march shocked the nation, and when a second march was
scheduled the fire department refused a direct order from Connor to use the
jets of water again. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The tour guide also focused on the bombing of 1963: four
little girls were killed when a bomb blast tore through a church in the city.
On the same day, two black male teenagers were also killed in separate racial
incidents, one shot by a 16-year-old member of the KKK, the other by the
police. (This was covered up at the time as the police didn’t want to take
responsibility for this at the time of the church bombing). The tour and my
subsequent visit to the museum reinforced my sense of awe at the activists’
bravery and their unwillingness to surrender their cause. This history can
never be forgotten.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In the park there were several
memorials to the Civil Rights Movement. The guide explained they are products
of their time: one statue depicted the attacks on the protestors but showed the
jets of water with no one operating them. The fire department didn’t want
to be associated with the violence, so were conveniently removed from the park.
Likewise, statues of dogs are sculpted launching out of a wall (left), but face inward
towards the cetre of the park so passers by or cars cannot see them from the
road. This was really interesting, and something I would have loved to study
for my Masters in Public History. This level of memorialization and forgetting
shows us that public memory is often abused to distort the past. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">But the most interesting fact I learned? One that, if I
had known, I would have shoved it in that lady’s face in Selma? In the 1930s,
Hitler sent agents to the South to study the segregation laws, and used them as
a base for his Nuremberg Laws. Hitler copied the South, and people still don’t
think there was a problem.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-60577062373124838932013-10-09T12:01:00.002-07:002013-10-26T01:56:56.321-07:00Deep South Pt 3: "How to Make Sense of the Staggering Death Toll?" Destruction, Death, Disability and the Civil War<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">[From Savannah, I travelled North along the antebellum
(pre-Civil War) trail to Madison, Georgia. So far I had been staying in creepy motels so I allowed myself a small treat by staying on a ranch for two nights,
and, although expensive, it was amazing. I tried horse riding and thought I was going to fall off mid-gallop, but like a pro
(ahem) I held on and tried not to scream. Or do anything to scare my horse, which
was lovingly named T-bone. I then headed straight to Atlanta for a rather mixed
experience.]</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Friday 9<sup>th</sup> August – First thing I noticed
about Atlanta? There are about 20 lanes on the freeway. Ok, that’s a slight
exaggeration, but at least 6! It was so freaking busy to try to get to all the
cool historic sites. After what felt like a year later, I parked and quite quickly
got lost trying to find the Martin Luther King Historic Site. After walking
through a slightly dodgy area I came across the visitor centre. It
was small, but there was an interesting exhibition on the life of MLK and his
decision to put all his energy and focus into the Civil Rights Movement. Opposite
the visitors centre was the Ebenezer Baptist church, where MLK often preached.
I am not religious, but his sermons (replayed on a tape recorder) reverberated
powerfully around the small church. His voice still has the ability to stir your soul. Next to the church stands a Freedom Centre and the tomb of Dr King and his wife, Coretta. It was very moving to stand next to the grave
of one of the most influential men in the world, someone who fought for justice and equality for all. The 'I have a dream' speech remains the most powerful speech of the c20th.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHcX9K3aMHKtufkq1pD5gPOnhIQ7SLVqXDU75WKwEQ7ficFkNPxBneOB6VhVofin9CBvB9vSncdPnruoYK8xDMbN0Omv1KDkgV1z3p6eaFaSMoNnAtXn6cLVq5E4pVmANzPq2WYpKfmtQc/s1600/P1100152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHcX9K3aMHKtufkq1pD5gPOnhIQ7SLVqXDU75WKwEQ7ficFkNPxBneOB6VhVofin9CBvB9vSncdPnruoYK8xDMbN0Omv1KDkgV1z3p6eaFaSMoNnAtXn6cLVq5E4pVmANzPq2WYpKfmtQc/s320/P1100152.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Deciding it was too unsafe to walk solo to my next
destination, I drove a mile or so down the road to the Cyclorama Museum,
perhaps one of the most random sites I have ever been to. It contains the
largest oil painting in the world, depicting the Battle for Atlanta and General Sherman’s campaign in the South. Weighing in at 9 tons, it was
absolutely huge. You sat in a small theatre that rotated 360 degrees, so you could see it from every possible angle. Very weird and wonderful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">From the Cyclorama, I drove a few miles to the Atlanta
History Center. Unfortunately, I arrived around 3.30pm, so I only had two hours
to see a beautiful country house and an enormous museum. For some that might be
enough time but I think I set some kind of personal record for the amount of
times I checked my watch. I wish I had known how good this site was going to
be, as I would have spent the entire day there. So I had to prioritise: I missed out the farm
house and headed straight for the country house. Built in the 1930s, it was
palladian in style (based on Greek classical buildings, with a strong focus on
symmetry). It was simply breathtaking. I pretty much had the place to myself,
and got chatting to the guides who told me more about the history of the house
and the history center itself. Perilously looking at my watch (only one hour to
go!) I pegged it to the museum and made a beeline for the Civil War exhibit.
Without exaggeration, I can say this is probably one of the best exhibits I
have ever had the pleasure of going to, and by far the best for the Civil War.
It raised a myriad of questions: when
war broke out, what did it mean to be an American? A Northerner, A Southerner?
Should the United States be defined by slavery, or should it spread west? Was
it treason to fight against the Union? </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The exhibit cleverly set the scene:
America was a “confused fledging democracy” and it was to “be shaken to
its very core". I had always known how destructive the Civil War had been but
never before had I realized what it meant for America as a <i>whole. </i>How was this new republic to survive? The exhibit explained why the War started, and briefly
explained what happened and the outcome of every major battle. But what I liked
about it was the emphasis on people. It had a section on the life of the
soldier, Union and Confederate, as well as what life was like on the Home
Front. How did families cope without their menfolk, particularly in the South?
How did families mourn? There were so many times a single artefact stopped me in my
tracks. The crutches of a wounded soldier. A bloodstained shirt from the Battle of Atlanta. This, more than
anything, brought home the brutality of war. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;">A bloodstained coat can tell us about the soldier,
the grieving widow, his children, or the hardships and stark mortality of
battle. That soldier lived, breathed, felt that coat on his skin. Did he have
time to think before that bullet struck him? One soldier’s coat humanises the
evil hand of war, reminds us that thousands of men and women fought,
survived and died under the cruel hand of fate. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I also came across
a small sweetheart’s pin. A nurse in Albany, Georgia, was given a pin by a
Confederate soldier in which he had inscribed the name ‘Lizzie.” The pin was
made from the bone of his amputated leg, but the soldier died before he
could tell the nurse who Lizzie was. The identity of Lizzie is still unknown. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;">This is why I love history: it stirs
my soul. And simultaneously breaks my heart.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">At the end of the exhibition, one question surpassed
all others: over 670,000 Americans died in the Civil War, more than any other
war Americans have been involved in put together. The War left behind death,
destruction and disability. How to make sense of the staggering death toll? </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Such
is the price we pay for human freedom?...There sleep our brothers and sons –the
best we had to give; the costliest sacrifice we could offer on the altar of our
country. “ Charles McKay, Northern civilian."<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Saturday 10<sup>th</sup> August – Long day travelling
south from Atlanta. Arrived in Macon around 9.30, and the town was completely
dead. Pretty, but dead. Walked around for an hour or so until the historic
houses started to open, and headed for Hay House. This is probably the most
elegant house I’ve been in so far, very beautiful and ornate. The house tour was
good apart from the glaring omission of slavery. I asked about this, and was
told that “we don’t know much about the servants.” Funny how a servant and a
slave are interchangeable when they both mean different things. Next door I
visited the Cannonball House (so-called because it was fired upon during the
Civil War). Again, there was little mention of the “servants” but I did learn
some fascinating little facts – African Americans wore white when mourning, and
in nineteenth century photographs boys hair was parted to the sides and girls
down the middle (just in case they looked similar).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">From Macon I drove south to Andersonville, a former
Prisoner of War site for Union soldiers. It was originally named Camp Sumter,
and since its inception it has maintained a notorious reputation. A small
museum traced the history of POWs through American history, which was
interesting albeit a little disjointed as the narrative kept jumping back and
forth from the Civil War to Vietnam, then to Korea and present day. (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">Roughly 347,000 men were held as POWs throughout the Civil War, more than World War Two.) </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">The key to
the prison was on display though, a powerfully blunt reminder of the entrance
to a place with so much horror and death.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Camp Sumter was built in early 1864, as Confederate
officials wanted a larger space to house thousands of federal prisoners from
Virginia and Georgia. In its short life, the camp confined 45,000 soldiers.
Over 13,000 died from starvation, disease, overcrowding and poor sanitation.
Half of all Union prisoner deaths occurred at this horrific site. From
February, 400 Union soldiers arrived every day and by the end of June, 26,000
men occupied a space that was originally designed for 10,000. The Confederate
army could not supply adequate food or clothing, and soldiers were expected to
make their own tents out of any material they could find – trousers, a small
sheet or blanket which was meant to protect them through rain or shine.
Unsurprisingly, it was a “hell on earth.” When Union General Sherman came close
to marching in the area, the Confederates moved the soldiers to other prisons
in Georgia. The camp commandant, Captain Henry Wirz was the only man to be
executed for war crimes after the Civil War had ended. He was charged with
conspiring with officials “to impair and injure the health and destroy the
lives…of federal prisoners.” He was hanged on 10 November 1865. A monument to
him still stands in the town of Andersonville, designed by the Daughters of the
Confederacy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVbyNR1aZ582Pdqh3Ue-oBaJ5rFFz6U8kucZePO9PPkzpFe8kmEtRhawC2VltYrifkD3JdXJcBZ_QCNpd2iXuJbOcUWCF_ylIyvBZGpvR8qyTzp2xHJucjjA6VDOS5lRW2krk1JJbdSin/s1600/P1100372.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVbyNR1aZ582Pdqh3Ue-oBaJ5rFFz6U8kucZePO9PPkzpFe8kmEtRhawC2VltYrifkD3JdXJcBZ_QCNpd2iXuJbOcUWCF_ylIyvBZGpvR8qyTzp2xHJucjjA6VDOS5lRW2krk1JJbdSin/s320/P1100372.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After the museum, an auto tour was designed to take
you around the main sites of the camp and past the memorials. It was incredibly
powerful to walk on the same footpath that Union soldiers would have taken,
through the gates and past the watch tower into the ‘gates of hell.’ I stood
there for a while, trying to imagine the sights and smells those soldiers
faced, and luckily, didn’t get very far. Nothing I could imagine would come
close: people complained about the stench of the prison ten miles away. At its
height, 130 prisoners died every single day, at such a high rate that coffins could
not be built fast enough. Bodies were instead dumped in mass graves. I stood
opposite an empty field, where the prison hospital stood. Many soldiers refused
to go, knowing they would never come out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A national cemetery was established at Andersonville on 26 July 1865. During the Camp's operation, </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">prisoner Dorence Atwater
was assigned the task of recording the soldiers who died for the Confederate
officials, but unbeknownst to them, Atwater kept a second copy for himself. After the War, Atwater wanted to give them a proper burial, and when he was spurned by the government, he enlisted the help of Clara Barton. Another heroine of mine, Barton founded the American Red Cross and nursed thousands of men during the War. By 1868, 800 additional
Union soldiers who had died in prison camps across Georgia were laid to rest
here, which brought the total to over 13,800. There are over 500 unknown
soldiers buried in the cemetery, something I have always thought of as a cruel
twist of fate since visiting the battlefields of France. Today, Andersonville
is still an active cemetery (active in the sense that soldiers can choose to be
buried there) and the roll call presently stands at 18,000.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">As I walked around the cemetery, I kept remembering
John McCrae’s poem, “In Flanders Fields” (which was written in 1915 during
World War One). I studied it at school and the words have always stuck with me:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“In Flanders Field, the poppies blow, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">between the crosses row on row, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDfIMn28B7ojxivRjKSPTWtKEIfVtXOCHYH1O5Gi3-pMWvy3OBFe4cRpOS3TsiOJDfYxP4PLZy2XROrvbjFOZL6ZLwY3PO9aZstPAVPD6EpwbTJybTige6g5leu7nLqK85TR4b0nu9mg9/s1600/P1100435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdDfIMn28B7ojxivRjKSPTWtKEIfVtXOCHYH1O5Gi3-pMWvy3OBFe4cRpOS3TsiOJDfYxP4PLZy2XROrvbjFOZL6ZLwY3PO9aZstPAVPD6EpwbTJybTige6g5leu7nLqK85TR4b0nu9mg9/s320/P1100435.JPG" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">that mark our place; and in the sky, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">the larks, still bravely singing fly, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">scarce heard amid the guns below. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We are the dead. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Short days ago, we lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">loved and were loved, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">and now we lie, in Flanders Field. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Take up our quarrel with the foe, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">to you, from flailing hands we throw, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">the torch, be yours to hold it high, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">if ye break faith with us who die. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We shall not sleep, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">though poppies grow,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In Flanders
field.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A cruel place. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-29392942809318184842013-10-04T10:29:00.001-07:002013-10-26T01:56:56.313-07:00Deep South Pt 2: "Give me liberty or death". The Road to Slavery, Charleston to Savannah.<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">[From Tennessee, I drove back into North Carolina to
Greensboro. It took roughly four hours, but it is an incredibly important site on the Civil Rights Trail. The drive was worth it.] <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Friday 29<sup>th</sup> July – I arrived at the Civil Rights Museum
just in time for a guided tour. Before entering the main exhibition, the
visitor was greeted by a “Hall of Shame” where photographs of the worst
atrocities from the Civil Rights period were displayed. It was designed to point
out the hypocrisy of American society: in theory America had always
presented itself as a country synonymous with freedom, when the exact
opposite was true. There were photographs of violent struggles in Mississippi,
the ruins of the church in Birmingham struck by a bomb in 1963, the bodies of
Civil Rights activists and the swollen face of Emmett Till. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In 1955, Emmett Till was
visiting family in Mississippi when he allegedly flirted with a white woman.
That evening, he was kidnapped, tortured and beaten to death; his body was
mutilated and thrown into the Tallahatchie River. He was 14 years old. When
Emmett’s body was recovered, his face was so swollen he was almost
unrecognizable but his mother insisted on an open casket for his funeral so
“the world could see what Jim Crow had done to her son.” The photograph of his
body made international headlines. Many African American teenagers had been lynched or tortured before,
but rarely had a case involving racist violence and the lack of law and order
become so public. The new African American museum in Washington D.C. (opening
in 2015) has acquired the original casket in which Emmett’s body was placed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">…The main reason for visiting this museum however was
to learn about the Greensboro sit-ins, which revolutionalised the Civil Rights
Movement in the 1960s. In department stores, all lunch counters were segregated
– a section for white, a section for black. In 1960, four black students named Ezell Blair Jr., David
Richmond, Franklin McClain and Joseph McNeil strongly believed in a peaceful
form of direct action and were determined to change the laws of segregation. They
sat in the white section of the lunch counter in Woolworths and were refused service until the store closed. They returned the next day. A week or so later, their protest had grown to
over 20 students </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">from the surrounding colleges</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">, white and black. The sit-in
movement spread like wildfire across the South and despite attempts by the
white population to remove them (this included pulling students by their hair,
spitting at them and shouting vile language in their faces), they refused to give
up. After six months of this, the Woolworths store in Greensboro lost over
$200,000 and reluctantly the manager desegregated the lunch counter. It would
take years for other cities to follow this example, but the news coverage was
so extensive the sit-ins became an essential turning point for Civil Rights history.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I wasn’t aware of this at the time, but the museum is
situated on the old Woolworths’ building, and has preserved the seats and the
lunch counter from 1960. Even the floor tiles were original! It was incredible
to stand in the room where four ordinary students made history. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Before I left the museum, I had a great chat with the
African American security guard (he liked my accent...) He told me some
interesting personal stories and his experiences with racism: 20 years ago he
left his job because he had scored higher than everyone else in a test but did
not receive a raise because he was black. For much of the South, “the Civil War
was still being fought”, particularly in Louisiana and Florida where "racial
prejudice thrives.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Wednesday 31<sup>st</sup> July – Americans have this
image of Britain as a rainy and horrible place. Yes it does rain in Britain a fair amount but not in
the same league as the States. For when it rains in America, the heavens open, and rivers form
within about three minutes. Unfortunately,
I had chosen this particular moment to arrive at Boone Hall Plantation, the
first destination I was feeling giddy about visiting. “Have you got an
umbrella?” the ticket man asked me as I pulled up at the entrance. (I was
wearing a maxi dress and sunglasses at this point and must have looked a prize
idiot). “Um, no I don’t. I’m hoping it’s going to stop soon…” My voice trailed
away as the man looked at me pitifully. “Enjoy your visit.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So the infamous drive I had been waiting for, the
alley of oaks leading to a spectacular mansion, took place in the pouring rain. Not exactly what I had in mind. After a quick change in the back of my car
(classy) I ran to the house and sat on the porch waiting for the rain to stop, which thankfully it did after an hour or so. I booked a house tour and a place on
the Gullah presentation, and to kill time I explored the slave cabins. Boone
Hall has 9 cabins made out of brick, which is incredibly unusual for the time
because most were made out of wood. These cabins were in the front
yard and visitors would have seen these first before the main house: if the <i>slave</i> cabins were made from brick, you knew you were entering a wealthy plantation.
Each cabin would have housed between 6-12 people, mainly house slaves as the
field slaves would have lived in wooden cabins in the fields. (There was a
hierarchy among the enslaved, and you were considered ‘higher up’ on the scale
if you worked in the house.)</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">On this particular plantation, long grain rice was
grown and produced by the enslaved. This area of South Carolina was famous for
rice and cotton, and many plantation owners earned thousands by selling their
goods across the country, and beyond. (For example, in Liverpool 90%
of imported cotton came from the South.) Depending on the crop and the
plantation owner (or overseer if the owner was away on business), the slaves
would work from dawn until dusk in the sweltering heat. A slave was seen as
property, and often a slave in their 30s with a particular skill (for example,
a carpenter) could reach $1800 on the auction block. If a plantation owned 100
slaves…well you do the math. Slaves were allowed one set of clothes per year,
and one day off a week (or sometimes once a month, again this varied from
plantation to plantation). </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
enslaved were governed by a series of laws called the Black Codes. The laws
differed slightly in each Southern state but generally they were fairly similar.
Slaves were not allowed to read or write, to answer back or strike a white
person. Their testimony was dismissed in court, and they had to carry papers at
all times if they were travelling away from their own plantation. They could
not travel alone, or assemble in groups (within or outside the plantation).
Essentially, the codes were designed to restrict escape attempts and to
completely control the slave population.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In each cabin, there was a small exhibition on the
life of a slave and what happened to them after the Civil War. Quotes by
Frederick Douglass, the fiery abolitionist William Lloyd Garrison and former
slave Harriet Tubman adorned the walls. Tubman, my personal heroine, declared
“there is either liberty or death, and if I can’t have one, I will have the
other.” Standing in those slave cabins was the most surreal moment of my life
so far. I had read about slavery for five years, imagined what life must have
been like for a slave living in the heart of South Carolina, or in the humidity
of Louisiana, but nothing came close to standing in that cabin, feeling the marks
of fingerprints on the walls, and looking out of the window to stare at the
alley of oak trees. What would the enslaved have experienced within
these walls? Loss and sacrifice. Heartbreak and death. Love and defiance.
Survival.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">It was an incredibly moving experience, and one that I
shall never forget.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After a tour of the ‘big house’, I listened to a
fascinating presentation on Gullah culture. The Gullah are descendants from
African slaves, and the language has influenced society for generations. The
Gullah culture focuses on ancestors, and whereas we might say “our guardian
angel was looking out for me today” someone who believed in the Gullah way of
life would say “my great great grandfather was protecting me today.” In the
Gullah culture, no one dies per se: they merely ‘pass on’ to the next life
(which is why we say somebody has “passed away.”) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Friday 2<sup>nd</sup> August: Charleston – Following on from my
presentation yesterday, I went on a Gullah tour of Charleston for two hours,
which highlighted many hidden African American sites across the city. A visit
to the Charleston Museum was a bit of a waste of time – it was good, but I
thought they crammed too much into a small space and didn’t really explain
things properly. This is a shame, because the history of Charleston is
fascinating, from the pre-revolutionary period to the post-Civil War era. In
the c18th, Charles II gave 8 (English) Lord Proprietors the stretch of land in
North America that would become known as the Carolinas (this means ‘Charles’ in
Latin), and they began building plantations that became an essential part of
the economy for many years. After the museum, I booked a ticket on the ferry to
Fort Sumter, the place where the American Civil War began. This is one of the
world’s most important historical sites, and it was amazing being
able to stand there, in a place that saw much bitter fighting between the
Unionists and Confederates.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Saturday 3<sup>rd</sup> August – [I went to many
historic sites in Charleston on this day, including the Old Exchange Building
where I learned a great deal about pirates; the Aiken-Rhett House, a great
example of urban slavery and a ghost walking tour. Technically the ghost tour in New
Orleans was much better so I will write that one up instead…] The most
impressive part of the day without contest was the Old Slave Mart Museum (left). This
building was originally a slave auction from the 1850s, and it was incredibly
overwhelming to stand in a place where slaves were sold, imagining the cries of
the sellers, the traders and the slaves. Soloman Northup, a free black man
kidnapped and sold into slavery, provides one of the best descriptions of such
a slave market, and declared “it was a mournful scene indeed” as husbands and
wives, mothers and children were separated and never reunited. This particular
auction was moved inside as
Charlestonians believed the slave business “jarred with the genteel aspect of
the city.” The museum was small but very good. It was a balanced interpretation
of what happened within an auction, from the point of the view of the slave and
the trader. It did well to consider slave resistance too: a slave was told to
speak little and act obedient, but he or she could tell by trader's questions where they were likely to be sold to. This offered a slave the chance to
frame their answers, for example, if a trader asked particular questions about
rice or cotton it was likely he or she would remain in South Carolina or
Georgia, potentially near family members. If asked about sugar, it would be a
ticket to Louisiana. So, if a slave had family on a rice plantation, and he or she was approached by someone in the rice business, they could describe their skill in an effort to be sold to that person. I had never heard of this before and I found it
fascinating, if only to add to my interest in how slaves resisted their
condition. One particular story reinforced this. One enslaved woman remembered
stepping forward on the auction block and realizing she was being scrutinized
by a cruel plantation owner named Old Judge Miller. She called out – “Old Judge
Miller, don’t you bid for me, because if you do, I will cut my throat from ear
to ear rather than work for you.” Miraculously, the Old Judge stepped down, but
unfortunately this independence came at a price. The woman’s father had
persuaded his owner to buy her, but after witnessing this
exchange the owner refused, as he did not want a 'sassy' slave.
Heartbroken, the father watched as his daughter was sold to another trader in
Missouri.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">“Monday 5<sup>th</sup> August – I spent the day in
Savannah, which if I’m honest was a little bit of a let down. It was a beautiful
city but no where near what I imagined it to be and after the beauty of
Charleston it seemed rather unexciting. Saying that, I visited Leopold’s ice
cream parlour, the 5<sup>th</sup> best parlour in the world. I had a chocolate, raspberry and vanilla sundae and it’s probably the most beautiful thing I
have ever or will ever eat in my life. [All ice cream I have had since has
tasted like dirt. Truth.] To maintain my excitement
over dinner, I had a trolley tour of the city, which is not something I usually
do but it was hot and I was so exhausted from Charleston I wanted to sit down
for 2 hours and be driven around. It turned out to be a fabulous tour,
with lots of interesting anecdotes:</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">1.) Mirrors were often placed on the outside of houses
to make the house bigger and also so ladies could adjust their skirts before
entering (it was considered most shameful to show a petticoat in the c19th).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">2.) Pineapples are a symbol of welcome and were placed
in the window of a house to indicate a party was going to take place. However,
when the pineapple was removed from the window, you knew it was time to leave. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">3.) Ladies would carry smelling salts around their
necks to aid their friends if they fainted in the heat. (Corsets sound like a
nightmare).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">4.) The statue of a Confederate Soldier stands in the
famous Forsyth Park. This was built by the Daughters of the Confederacy shortly
after the Civil War, but it was shipped to the South via water as the women did
not want any section of the statue to touch Northern soil. The soldier stands
facing North, ready to defend his people once again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I briefly had a guided tour around the Richards-Owen
House, another example of urban slavery within Savannah. It was a lovely house,
and was infamous in the c19th for its size, elegance, and modern features. The
house had an indoor plumbing system in 1819, fifteen years before the White
House! Unfortunately, the life of the slave was once again shunned and ignored.
It is interesting and irritating to watch a tour unfold with so little mention
over an essential part of social history, and frankly if we’re going to be
blunt, economic history."<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-53038321301943026032013-09-28T10:53:00.000-07:002013-10-26T01:56:56.318-07:00Deep South Pt 1: From Cotton to Creation Stories. The Journey from Charlotte to Cherokee<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">[Since I returned from the Deep South, I've been typing up sections of my travel blog that cover the interesting, the weird, and well, the weirdly interesting. In five and a half weeks, I drove 4,100 miles through seven states, visiting mountains, beaches, and a grand total of 76 historic sites. It would take months to write about each event in detail, so here follows the toned down version of the most incredible trip of a lifetime.]</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Wednesday 24th July - After an early morning car journey, two flights and two wasted hours watching the so bad-it's-good Hansel and Gretel, I have arrived safely in Charlotte, North Carolina! Blinking in the late afternoon sunshine (and HUMIDITY) I hailed a cab to take me to my unsurprisingly grotty motel. Taking a taxi in the States can go two ways: one, the silent ride to your destination, or more often than not, a chatty rant about the state of American politics and society. Typical taxi talk. Luckily, this time it was the latter. That's not sarcasm either, I think you can only get to know a country by talking to the locals - whether it be taxi drivers, cafe owners, waiters etc - only then can you build a picture of what America is truly like, not what we imagine it to be. The cabbie had emigrated here sixteen years ago from Nigeria and only remained here because of his daughter (he had a small picture of her in the car visor). For working men like him, 'the rich keep on taking, and the poor keep getting poorer.' He talked a lot about the Tea Party, and how they stood for the rich, middle class - and white. He talked of the racial struggles and how most Americans were not ready for a black President, especially places like 'culturally backward' Mississippi. After he dropped me at the hotel, we shook hands and I thanked him for the interesting conversation. He laughed and said with a smile, that some people in the States would raise eyebrows at a black man talking informally to a white woman. I haven't been in the South for AN HOUR and already I'm hearing the rumblings of racial conflict. I had been expecting this, but what struck me most about him was his concept of America. In his words, he said "America has the blueprint to change the world" and if she doesn't stand and grab it, she will fall. Despite all the social and racial problems (and let's face it, these are problems that are not specific to America) his view of what America stands for remained unchanged. Here was a man who was not native to the US, but had been touched, infected, absorbed-by-osmosis the philosophy that in theory, America has the ability to stand as an ideal and perfect nation. She only has to live up to these ideas in practice. It's a historical concept that is deeply embedded in society. In the c17th John Winthrop wrote of the new nation as a "city upon a hill", a superior nation others should look to. A century later, Crevecoeur stated "here individuals of all nations are melted into a new race of men, whose labours and posterity will one day cause great changes in the world." This attitude always fascinated me at uni, and it's incredible seeing it in practice. That America has designed herself as a unique nation, a grand experiment, which if successful, can change the entire world. Of course, America's history is littered with failures and compromises over the contradiction between this blueprint and reality."</span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA6cxs_AcaUtwCuhi4_zzH2TlP1NpavmkNdknrJboLU8BR0NGHScvp6olZKnGV2i7LhNh8J4MvNwtfTnKyXnarM78jgl3t5kdpz9eDFpQOg9-9wyX_poihBCg_yxby1w_ovhdhZO2U8Ucn/s1600/P1080745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA6cxs_AcaUtwCuhi4_zzH2TlP1NpavmkNdknrJboLU8BR0NGHScvp6olZKnGV2i7LhNh8J4MvNwtfTnKyXnarM78jgl3t5kdpz9eDFpQOg9-9wyX_poihBCg_yxby1w_ovhdhZO2U8Ucn/s320/P1080745.jpg" width="240" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Thursday 25th July - First day in Charlotte and I headed to the Levine Museum of the New South, pretty much the main reason why I wanted to go to the city in the first place. It was a brilliant museum, modern and interactive, and it considered how the South survived after the devastation of the Civil War. In the antebellum period, (before the war) "COTTON WAS KING" but industrialists had to find new ways of manufacturing cotton since slavery had been abolished. For the poor white or black farmer however, it meant a harsh existence, living in poverty across the Carolinas. Former black slaves worked as tenant farmers, often in the plantations they had been sold to. Some moved North to start a new life, but many remained behind - with no money, where were they to go? If friends and family remained, why venture North to an unfamiliar land, where, despite what we may now think, the North was also a hotbed of racism? At the end of the museum, a visitor experience panel asked people to comment on certain moral questions. One asked - "Do you think the South has equality now?" Interestingly, most responses were in the negative, although some acknowledged the South was slowly working towards it..." </span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4DFmkXs9enoIL3og79rFRHPMvhIisto2ia3FKL9-mF43JPrOLVj4Kl2NN996gX6U0JEPBJt87lphtKKVrsi-22ovCecRZZ17eTdzHLhg0Gh4r1cfCZIJLApc0YSi0RFHseHjgK6pK06q/s1600/P1080806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4DFmkXs9enoIL3og79rFRHPMvhIisto2ia3FKL9-mF43JPrOLVj4Kl2NN996gX6U0JEPBJt87lphtKKVrsi-22ovCecRZZ17eTdzHLhg0Gh4r1cfCZIJLApc0YSi0RFHseHjgK6pK06q/s320/P1080806.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Friday 26th July - [This was the day I picked up my glorious car, the beautiful and smooth Hyundai I named 'Serenity'. People might not get the nerdy joke there.] "From Charlotte, I made my way to Cherokee, on the border between North Carolina and Tennessee, and literally, at the foot of the Great Smokey Mountains. I stopped at the Cherokee Indian Museum, another excellent museum that chronicled the history of the Cherokee nation. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The first exhibition concerned creation stories, and how the Cherokee believe the Earth was formed: the water beetle swam down through the ocean until he found some mud and carried it to the surface, and this became the Earth. The water spider first gave men fire, after unsuccessful attempts by many of the other animals. The owl tried to take a branch from the fire but her eyes became so thick with soot she rubbed them until she had white circles around her eyes.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> The raven failed too, but not before her wings were dyed black from the smoke. The importance of plants in Cherokee society was explained in another creation story: after men had killed many creatures of the Earth, the animals held a council and said that every animal killed would mean another disease released amongst men. In response, the plants held a council of their own and decided that for every disease a plant would offer a cure...</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rest of the museum focused on the Cherokee in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, and how the French, British and Americans used them firstly as pawns in their wars and then drove them off their native lands. Along with the Creek, Chocktaw and Chicasaw tribes, the Cherokee were forcibly marched to Oklahoma in the 1830s. Thousands died of disease and starvation on this infamous Trail of Tears, or translated from the Cherokee, 'The Trail where we cried". There was even a fascinating exhibit on the Cherokee in London, when several chiefs visited Britain and were paraded in front of royalty and upper class society. I also learned of Sequoyah, an exceptionally smart and hard working man, who spent 20 years creating the first written Cherokee alphabet in the 1820s - it took twice as long as his long-suffering wife burned his first copy. OUCH. Incidentally, the Cherokee do not have a word for goodbye, instead they say "Until We Meet Again..."</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"...I also visited the Cherokee Indian village, where members of the tribe display the crafts, pottery and weapons their ancestors would have used. It's a great way of showing visitors how these things would have been made, as well as showing their enormous talent. The Cherokee tribe is split into seven clans - the Wild Potato, Bird, Long Hair (the original name is now lost), Painted, Wolf, and Deer. Each clan brings something unique and/or traditional to the tribe, for example the role of the Wild Potato clan is mainly agricultural, so to gather food or plants; while the Bird clan collected eagle feathers, a sacred object to the tribe (so much so that during the Eagle Dance the feathers decorating the dancers were not allowed to touch the floor, otherwise bad luck or even death would come to that person or his family). Women were especially important, and some were lucky enough to have the title of a 'Beloved' woman bestowed upon them. In this case, her opinion would be held in high regard, and she would be consulted in times of war and peace. The women in the tribe could also decide the fate of Prisoners of War, be it assimilation, torture or death; and if she wanted a divorce, the man would not be consulted: he would return home to his tipi and find his things outside. Awesome." </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Saturday 27th July - [After driving back and forth through the stunningly beautiful Great Smoky Mountains, I found myself again in Cherokee on Saturday evening for "Unto these Hills", a Cherokee drama that has been performed since the 1950s, chronicling an important moment in the tribe's history.] "The story centred on Tsali, a Cherokee who killed two American soldiers in an attempt to escape the occupation of his lands. Him and his family went on the run, and the remaining Cherokee were told that if they helped hunt down Tsali, they could keep their lands. They agreed and Tsali sacrificed his life, and that of his sons, to protect his people. The Cherokee in Eastern Tennessee are direct descendents from this band who were not marched south. In every single Native American museum I have been to, no matter how horrific the stories that emerge over the generations, from death to cultural genocide, the story remains one of survival. Many languages have been lost, but many survive, and are being passed down to younger generations. I once heard the quote "the best form of revenge is survival." This holds true..."</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sunday 28th July - [From the culturally interesting, to the culturally weird. Looking back on what I've written, it still doesn't explain the level of crazy I saw here.] I drove to Pigeon Forge, a small dot on the map in the middle of the mountains of Tennessee. What did I expect? Nothing much. After all, I had come here to visit the Titanic Museum. Since I'm from Southampton, and I worked in a Titanic Museum for a year, I thought it would be a good place to go. But in all seriousness, Pigeon Forge is the WEIRDEST PLACE I HAVE EVER SEEN. EVER. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s like a giant funfair, an
arcade, a commercialised mess, but somehow it's HORRIFICALLY HYPNOTIC. A long road of about five miles contains such delights as a large wax museum with King Kong climbing up a replica of the Empire State, themed dinner shows about Hatfield and McCoy, or Feuding Lumberjacks, a huge Christmas village, a ski chalet, an upturned White House...</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s so difficult to describe because it’s all so
new and looks absolutely crazy. God I wish I
could describe it better. Literally right next to the Smokies you have the most
commercial town I’ve ever seen. After all this, I thought stupidly I wouldn’t spot the Titanic museum amongst the huge buildings and the lights, but I clearly
hadn’t got into the spirit of things: of course, there was a huge replica of
the ACTUAL SHIP. I should have realised that no expense would be spared and naturally they would have Celion Dion playing in the car park next to a humungous iceberg. I got there about 3.30pm (this was a Sunday) and found out later it opened until midnight, perhaps confirming my suspicion it was more of an attraction than a straight-laced museum. But maybe this was because of the town itself. I queued for my ticket and was met with stewards and stewardesses, all surrounded by posters of the Titanic screaming "SOUTHAMPTON TO NEW YORK, APRIL 1912." Upon entry, I was greeted by a man dressed as Captain Smith (with uncanny resemblance to the man himself) and was welcomed aboard. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So what did the museum have? What didn’t it
have I think should be the question. The artefacts they showcased are A DREAM. Thousands of letters, postcards, menus - even a deckchair from the ship (valued at $100,000), objects a tiny museum in Southampton could never EVER afford. (How does a museum in small-town Pigeon Forge with no discernible connection get all this stuff, over a small museum in the place where the ship actually sailed? Simple answer: money and </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">interest. Americans love the Titanic and everything about it.) They even managed to get Wallace Hartley's violin - this had only been found several months ago in England, and I guarantee Southampton will never see it, but here it was, presented beautifully in the heart of a replica Titanic. Hartley was part of the infamous 'Band that Played On' as the ship sank. It truly is a magnificent artefact.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And the weirdest thing? There was a replica of the facade of the Grapes pub in Southampton, a place that has been long associated with the Titanic and a favourite drinking haunt of much of the crew before the ship sailed. For of course, 75% of the crew were from Southampton, so the disaster had a huge impact on the city. A strange piece of home in the middle of nowhere.</span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjULIEOwt0tHiM7QzFDFhT9SDXnkOC0P7ghPSJCKG_VWc13Mvy30NVHznxMfjeyUuzMYtfW-xvkjJ5uCYRrlsJG2IQUR5d9BF_1-xo5W6_-rz65Vc-uoXyfGjuQnihgnxdAwTrhBLWh5poA/s1600/IMG_0717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjULIEOwt0tHiM7QzFDFhT9SDXnkOC0P7ghPSJCKG_VWc13Mvy30NVHznxMfjeyUuzMYtfW-xvkjJ5uCYRrlsJG2IQUR5d9BF_1-xo5W6_-rz65Vc-uoXyfGjuQnihgnxdAwTrhBLWh5poA/s320/IMG_0717.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Turning the next corner, they had an exhibit on life during the voyage, the crew and the moment disaster struck. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There was a replica of a first class suite belonging to the Strauss family, the owners of Macys. Thinking of Isidor and Ida Strauss always reduces me to tears: Isidor tried to get his wife to go on a lifeboat but she refused, saying "where you go, I go." Before the ship sank, they were glimpsed sitting in deck chairs, holding hands. (The scene from the movie Titanic where the old couple hold each other in bed is based on their story). In the 'disaster room' y</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ou could touch a real iceberg and plunge your hand in water (at 28 degrees) where hundreds of people perished. Typically, you could survive 6 minutes in that temperature; my hand began to burn after a few seconds. Horrible. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Perhaps the most impressive thing though, was an exact replica, size and scale, of the Grand Staircase. It's not often I'm rendered speechless over something but after everything I've read, even watching it on James Cameron's film, standing<i> </i>at the bottom of the staircase looking up at that glass dome was unreal. It was easy to imagine the life of the rich, the elegance and sheer luxury the Titanic offered. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The scale was incredible, but I think the jury is still out though. I just have
a nagging feeling about it. Maybe because the museum is in the middle of a fun fair,
or perhaps it's too commercialised for my taste...regardless, it was an awesome experience."</span><br />
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HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8068744142120209471.post-34837856827148141542013-09-27T10:43:00.002-07:002013-09-27T10:43:21.903-07:00An Enslaved Woman's narrative - the mystery may be solvedIn the last few days of my Southern trip I bought an edited version of 'A Bondwoman's Narrative', said to be the only novel written by an enslaved person. Professor Henry Louis Gates, the most famous historian of African American history and literature, purchased the manuscript for $8,500 in 2001 and published an edited version the following year. The author used a nom de plum (Hannah Crafts). Funnily enough, I came across the article below the other day, in which a historian claims he has discovered her identity. HUGE NEWS!!<br />
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Hannah Bowen was enslaved on a North Carolina plantation, owned by a man named John Hill Wheeler. In 1857, she escaped dressed as a man, much in the style of Ellen Craft, and settled in New York where she became a school teacher. Her novel is semi-autobiographical, and focuses on life on a plantation and eventual escape. Interestingly, her novel borrows from nineteenth century stories at the time, notably 'Jane Eyre' and 'Bleak House'. But this raises a question: how was a slave able to write such a book, when it was illegal to teach a slave to read and write? Historian Gregg Hecimovich claims to have some idea. He believes Bowen would have known 'Bleak House' well for example, as a nearby girls school were required to learn passages from memory. Bowen could have listened to students reciting it, or may have stolen a copy.<br />
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BEST PIECE OF NEWS I HAVE HEARD ALL DAY<br />
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http://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/19/books/professor-says-he-has-solved-a-mystery-over-a-slaves-novel.html?hp&_r=0HannahRosehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07669651511118423140noreply@blogger.com0